Thanks for the replies.
O.K. assuming a master cylinder is the wrong size. Which way to go? I
already have two 5/8 diameter cylinders. As far as I know you can't go
smaller so I'll need to have one larger. As it is I like a slightly softer
pedal and the front seams to have plenty of travel and a good feel. So if I
want more travel for the back I would need a smaller cylinder right???
By the way it was me who didn't bother to calculate the proper cylinder
size but I did get some advice from one or more expert Triumph racers...
P.J.
On Sat, May 27, 2017 at 1:05 PM, John Hasty via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
wrote:
> We use a 1" Willwood dual MC with apportion valve for rear. Works great.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 27, 2017, at 1:43 PM, "Duncan Charlton via Fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
>
> On a related note, the Morgan Plus 4 I used to race seemed to have too
> much braking force in the rear. There was a hydraulic brake balance lever
> but that had already been adjusted all the way toward greater front brake
> bias when I bought the car. I replaced the rear wheel cylinders with 3/4?
> bore TR6 items (perfect fit to replace the 7/8? Morgan items).
> Unfortunately it didn?t cure that particular problem, but it does show
> another way to tune the force of your rear brakes.
>
> Duncan Charlton
> 1121 Lower Elgin Rd
> Elgin, Texas 78621
> USA
>
>
>
> On May 27, 2017, at 7:46 AM, Paul Ricco via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
>
> PJ,
>
> Yes on a suggestion. We have set up several of these over the years.
> Assuming that everything else in the brake system is plumbed and working
> correctly, what you have going on with the balance bar is an indication
> that you do not have the right size master cylinder bores for the car. One
> of the many advantages of the system that your car has, includes being able
> to select the right size master cylinders for the weight distribution of
> the car, differences between the front/rear wheel cylinders and the type of
> brake feel that you want. Furthermore, the front and rear masters do not
> have to be the same size (They seldom should be). The balance bar is meant
> to be for FINE adjustments. It sounds to me like it is being used for a
> much bigger imbalance in the system. That will not work well.
>
> If it is a Tilton pedal assembly, they have a worksheet on their website.
> You can fill it out and submit it to their engineering department via
> email. In about 3 days, you will get an email back with their
> recommendation for master cylinders. They will want to know what type of
> pedal feel that you want. They do not charge for this service. The larger
> the bores, the more pedal pressure you will have.
>
> Pegasus Auto Racing Supply keeps all of the master cylinders in stock and
> they are very easy to change (provided the pedal assembly is installed
> correctly). It is really a very easy problem to address. I would guess
> that when the assembly was installed, that someone skipped the step of
> finding out what size masters are correct for the car.
>
> Good Luck,
>
> Paul Ricco
>
>
> On May 26, 2017, at 10:28 PM, McKearn McKearn via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
>
> Hi all.
> Trying to get the GT6 back on the road after a long winter in retirement.
> This car has a racecar style braking system with dual master cylinders and
> a balance bar for tuning. Last fall I nearly crashed when exiting an off
> ramp and had NO brakes...
> After renewing rotors and pads and bleeding the brakes I have discovered
> that the balance bar is sticking and flipping back and forth . Actually up
> and down would be more accurate. It seams that the rear brakes require less
> travel of the master cylinder so the front master cylinder moves much more.
> This is causing the balance bar to achieve quite alot of angularity. As it
> moves in and out it sometimes flips up or down and sometimes it actually
> sticks and refuses to push the left (front) master cylinder in. This seams
> strange to me as this has worked fine for several years.Any suggestions??
> Thanks. P.J.
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