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Re: Battery cut off?

To: "Glen Barrett" <speedtimer@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Battery cut off?
From: "John Beckett" <landspeedracer@email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 11:51:57 -0500
The rear of the car seems like the most logical place to gain a protected
area, and still maintain emergency crew access. Plus they would have a
pretty good idea where to look on each and every car.

John Beckett

----- Original Message -----
From: "Glen Barrett" <speedtimer@earthlink.net>
To: "John Beckett" <landspeedracer@email.msn.com>
Cc: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>; "Bill Bennett" <benettw@earthlink.net>;
<land-speed@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 11:24 AM
Subject: Re: Battery cut off?


> John, Keith and list
> The switch must be accessible to the emergency teams and in a protected
area to
> prevent damage to the switch in the event of a roll over.This is kind of
open to
> the car builder but at the same time we need to shut things off in the
event the
> driver is unable to.
> Glen
>
> John Beckett wrote:
>
> >     The only change in verbage that I am aware of Keith, is that the
cut-off
> > is now mandatory. Otherwise the placement of the switch is up to the
> > participant.
> >     Joe Timney has a neat remote operated unit that will replace your
heavy
> > duty solenoid, and avoid all the HD wire running all over the place.
Even
> > has the necessary switch for the Magneto, or one wire alternator guys,
so
> > everything gets shut off at one time.
> >
> >     John Beckett, LSR Comp Coupe #79
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
> > To: "Glen Barrett" <speedtimer@earthlink.net>
> > Cc: "Bill Bennett" <benettw@earthlink.net>; <land-speed@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 4:33 AM
> > Subject: Battery cut off?
> >
> > > Hey Dan... do we know the exact verbage of the change to the emergency
cut
> > > off switch yet?
> > >
> > > Here is the reason I am asking.... The constant duty solenoids I am
using
> > > haven't turned out to be a very good Idea.... seems they build up a
strong
> > > electrical field and when shut off it takes a couple of seconds for
the
> > > solenoid to release... What that means is in the event of an
incident...
> > if
> > > we turned everything off a delay in shutting down the car could be
> > > crucial.... So I am going to swap all that out for Relay's which are
in
> > fact
> > > instantanious
> > >
> > > If I have to carry the Battery Power ( Big Wires) all the way to the
back
> > of
> > > the car and then to the console and back to the using components in
the
> > > front of the car.... I am going to have HUGE wires running all over
the
> > > place.... Personally I would perfer to have the Console power only at
the
> > > back of the car...in the emergency shut off switch... when you turn it
off
> > > the power is removed from the using components instantly with the use
of
> > > relay's.... I think this is a bunch safer then a 15 foot long rod or
cable
> > > that could become bent or crimped in an accident.
> > >
> > > I am not interested in moving the Batteries to the Trunk.... I have
way to
> > > much Fuel running around back there...
> > >
> > > Keith ( thanks for your time again Dan )
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Glen Barrett" <speedtimer@earthlink.net>
> > > To: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
> > > Cc: "Bill Bennett" <benettw@earthlink.net>;
<land-speed@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 6:22 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Electrical stuff
> > >
> > >
> > > > Hey Keith
> > > > Can't you do anything without someone getting in your face??
> > > >
> > > > Keith Turk wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Hey Bill... very cool website... I know I gotta buy some weather
pack
> > > stuff
> > > > > so Dave will get off my butt for doing what I knew how to do....
> > Geez...
> > > you
> > > > > guys don't like any of my electrical system that I was so terribly
> > proud
> > > > > of.... all lined up neat and pretty.... all soldered and heat
> > > shrinked...
> > > > >
> > > > > Bet you would complain if I hung you with a new rope...
> > > > >
> > > > > K
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: "Bill Bennett" <benettw@earthlink.net>
> > > > > To: <land-speed@autox.team.net>
> > > > > Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 2:47 PM
> > > > > Subject: Painting other things
> > > > >
> > > > > > While will are on the subject of painting blocks. A though came
to
> > me
> > > > > > of something else useful to paint. Those pesky electrical
> > connections
> > > > > > that like to get all nasty after seeing salt. A few simple tips
may
> > > > > > save you some trouble later on.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > 1. Don't solder any electrical connection. Soldering causes a
> > fatigue
> > > > > > point. Use a crimp type connection, not the common type that you
> > find
> > > > > > in any auto parts store, but ones with a heat shrink type sleeve
> > that
> > > > > > seals the crimp.Yes Keith you can use your wife's blow dryer to
> > shrink
> > > > > > to sleeve. A pocket lighter is not recommend as it tends to get
to
> > hot
> > > > > > and also if you forget and put it back in your pocket might burn
> > some
> > > > > > pretty serious places. If you have to use a common type crimp
run to
> > > > > > the closest Radio Shack and get some heat shrink tubing.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > 2. Invest in a good quality crimper usually about 30-50 bucks
not
> > one
> > > > > > of those 5 -10 dollars types. You want a ratchet type that
crimps
> > the
> > > > > > metal ferrule as well as the plastic sleeve.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > 3. Don't use those 1/4" wide quick connects. Use switches that
make
> > > > > > use of screw terminals and use a ring type crimp connections.
Now it
> > > > > > won't vibrate lose and leave you wondering how that happened.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > 4. After all your wiring is done and check it out to be
completely
> > > > > > functional. Find a can of plasti-dip use to recoat tool handles,
> > color
> > > > > > doesn't matter. If you can't find any look through your wife's
> > finger
> > > > > > nail polish, color does matter. Get the ugliest color you hate
to
> > see
> > > > > > her wear. Hope she doesn't see you or she may worry about your
other
> > > > > > hobbies. Paint every connection including the screws cover them
> > > > > > completely. This will seal the connections and help prevent them
> > from
> > > > > > vibrating lose.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > 5. Battery terminals: I wished they would outlaw those dog gone
> > cheap
> > > > > > emergency battery terminals as they are nothing but trouble.
Moroso
> > > > > > and a few other stock a nice compression type terminal that
works
> > like
> > > > > > a tubing compression fitting. Otherwise use a crimp type. They
make
> > an
> > > > > > inexpensive tool for crimping these that Keith can use his
hammer
> > > > > > with. Before adding the terminal make sure you have bright shiny
> > > > > > copper if not use some fine emery cloth to polish the wire.
Obtain
> > > > > > some "NO-OX" from the local electrical supply house. It comes in
a
> > > > > > tube. Coat the wire good with it and make your connection, you
can
> > > > > > wipe off the excess. What now did you forget to put that piece
of
> > heat
> > > > > > shrink tubing on it before you made the connection. Yeah helps
seal
> > > > > > this connection too. Use it everywhere.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Keith that last one is meant for you get rid of those sorry
> > terminals
> > > > > > no since having a fast car with cheap terminals.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Here is a link that carries just about everything I talk about
and
> > > > > > just about anything electrical you could need to wire a car.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > www.waytekwire.com
> > > > > > Order their free catalog
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Bill

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