FWIW, Corvette comes from the factory filled with Mobil 1 synthetic, so they
obviously aren't worried about break-in. Since we are on this topic, question
for
bike guys (or others) Do you use synthetic oil? Reason I ask is there is a
raging
argument in the Harley world about pros & cons of synthetics. Mobil 1 already
makes
an air-cooled engine synthetic.......Lots of manufacturers use semi-synthetic
from
the factory. Harley will void your warrenty if they find it in your
bike........For
some reason the manual says that if you find the oil level low on your Harley &
Harley oil isn't available, use diesel oil! Can any of you lube-gurus explain
that
to me?
Thanks,
Ed
tim schoeny wrote:
> My cam grinder and short block builder both recommend "conventional" oil for
> break-in and then(if you want) synthetic for racing..Honda rings take forever
>to
> seat and starting out with syn. is not recommended.Just what I do.
> Tim
>Schoeny
>
> Skip Higginbotham wrote:
>
> > By the way, if you put Pro-blend in a new engine's oil it will take about 5
> > times longer to break the rings in. Guess where the benefit is? Better
> > lubrication.
> > S
> >
> > Not true, John.
> > Break-in should take about 10% longer but there is no reason not to use the
> > oil.
> > Skip Higginbotham
> >
> > At 01:58 PM 1/10/01 , you wrote:
> > >It was my understanding the synthitic oils of any kind are a NO NO in new
> > >componets. They do not allow the proper break-in to take place, and should
> > >only be used in components after the normal break-in has been finished.
> > >What say ye?
> > >
> > >John Beckett
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: "DOUG ODOM" <popms@thegrid.net>
> > >To: "Chris R Harris" <yesford@clear.net.nz>
> > >Cc: "land-speed" <land-speed@autox.team.net>
> > >Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 7:23 PM
> > >Subject: Re: Additives
> > >
> > >
> > >> Chris; Slick 50 is nothing more than Dupont Teflon repackaged. In the
> > >> states we can buy the K-mart teflon for less money and it's the same
> > >> thing. A friend of mine did some testing with mobil one and teflon on
> > >> the dyno. He said he made the most power with one Quart mobil one and
> > >> five quarts teflon. The bearings never took a hit. I thought about using
> > >> it myself instead of straight mobil one but I guess I lack the testicle
> > >> fortitude. I have used Amsoil in transmissions and rear ends with good
> > >> luck but the one time I tried it in a motor it started to wear the
> > >> bearings. Change back to Valvoline 50w and the bearings (vandervell) ran
> > >> all season with no wear. Just my 2 cents worth.
> > >> Doug Odom in big ditch
> > >>
> > >> Chris R Harris wrote:
> > >> >
> > >> > Compliments of the season to all on the list, thinking positively, 2001
> > >is
> > >> > going to be a great year.
> > >> >
> > >> > New subject additives. What is the lists opinion on the subject, do you
> > >have a
> > >> > favorite, are they strictly 'mouse milk', most certainly don't stack
>up
> > >to
> > >> > the claims made, some definitely do help. The one I use in my manual
> > >trans and
> > >> > diff on the roadster (definitely not the engine though) is Slick 50. My
> > >> > experience here was using a heavy rotary slasher on the farm. Powered
>by
> > >a 100
> > >> > hp tractor, these very basic slashers swinging a heavy hub with 4
> > >swinging
> > >> > blades, had a simple right angle bevel gear box between the PTO shaft
> > >and
> > >> > blade. In heavy going that box would get stink'in hot, couldn't touch
> > >it,
> > >> > always used the recommended oil. The addition of Slick made a huge
> > >reduction
> > >> > in box temperature, thats what convinced me it was doing its job.
> > >> >
> > >> > Lets hear your opinion including others like good assembly lubes or
> > >other
> > >> > special brews you have for particular purposes, there has to be plenty
> > >out
> > >> > there.
> > >> >
> > >> > Chris Harris New Zealand.
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