John; I am not the sharpest knife in the drawer about oil or rings so
I'm going to tell you what I believe to be the facts. If some one on the
list wants to correct me I will be very happy to learn where I'm
wrong. So here goes. I have been building race, high performance,
and street motors since the early 60's. What I have learned from the
trade publications and the seminars at the PRI show and SEMA show is
that the manufactures have changed the way they manufacture rings. They
are made to run in the new oils that we use today. If you can find an
old can of oil around ( for the young people on the list, oil used to
come in cans, and 24 to a case ) you will see that the rating was one of
the following DL for diesel light,DM diesel medimum,DS diesel sever or
ML motor light,MM motor medium,MS motor sever. Then they changed the
rating system to the API service rating about 15 or 20 years ago. Now
you have an S flow by a second letter that shows the anti scuffing, anti
foaming additives that are in the oil. The farther down the alphabet,
the better the oil. example SA is sewing machine oil and SJ is about the
newest stuff I have around here. So if your motor calls for SF oil you
can use SF or SG or SH or SJ.
We also have changed the way we hone the cylinders for the new rings
but that's another story. Doug Odom in big ditch
Beckett wrote:
>
> It was my understanding the synthitic oils of any kind are a NO NO in new
> componets. They do not allow the proper break-in to take place, and should
> only be used in components after the normal break-in has been finished.
> What say ye?
>
> John Beckett
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "DOUG ODOM" <popms@thegrid.net>
> To: "Chris R Harris" <yesford@clear.net.nz>
> Cc: "land-speed" <land-speed@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 7:23 PM
> Subject: Re: Additives
>
> > Chris; Slick 50 is nothing more than Dupont Teflon repackaged. In the
> > states we can buy the K-mart teflon for less money and it's the same
> > thing. A friend of mine did some testing with mobil one and teflon on
> > the dyno. He said he made the most power with one Quart mobil one and
> > five quarts teflon. The bearings never took a hit. I thought about using
> > it myself instead of straight mobil one but I guess I lack the testicle
> > fortitude. I have used Amsoil in transmissions and rear ends with good
> > luck but the one time I tried it in a motor it started to wear the
> > bearings. Change back to Valvoline 50w and the bearings (vandervell) ran
> > all season with no wear. Just my 2 cents worth.
> > Doug Odom in big ditch
> >
> > Chris R Harris wrote:
> > >
> > > Compliments of the season to all on the list, thinking positively, 2001
> is
> > > going to be a great year.
> > >
> > > New subject additives. What is the lists opinion on the subject, do you
> have a
> > > favorite, are they strictly 'mouse milk', most certainly don't stack up
> to
> > > the claims made, some definitely do help. The one I use in my manual
> trans and
> > > diff on the roadster (definitely not the engine though) is Slick 50. My
> > > experience here was using a heavy rotary slasher on the farm. Powered by
> a 100
> > > hp tractor, these very basic slashers swinging a heavy hub with 4
> swinging
> > > blades, had a simple right angle bevel gear box between the PTO shaft
> and
> > > blade. In heavy going that box would get stink'in hot, couldn't touch
> it,
> > > always used the recommended oil. The addition of Slick made a huge
> reduction
> > > in box temperature, thats what convinced me it was doing its job.
> > >
> > > Lets hear your opinion including others like good assembly lubes or
> other
> > > special brews you have for particular purposes, there has to be plenty
> out
> > > there.
> > >
> > > Chris Harris New Zealand.
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