Re: Dry sump

[Dave Dahlgren <ddahlgren@snet.net>]

I have no idea what it takes to run a dry sump pump vs. an internal pump. I buy
them from weaver and consider it the price of keeping the bearings happy.. I
would suspect it takes several foot lbs to turn from my experience priming and
engine that has on though. By the same token if it takes 3 hp to turn one. then
you need a 3 hp dc electric motor to turn it with enough current capacity to run
the pump full power for at least 5 minutes.. maybe on a bike engine it is 1 hp
but that is still a fair amount of electricity. If the engine makes 100 hp or
101 do you really think you will find the difference in performance vs the risk
involved?

BTW most engines run better with an alternator connected. they only draw for
power what is consumed in power in the car. If you make any serious power or run
over 7000 rpm I am real sure you ought to have one. The dwell time for a coil is
fixed.. if you lower the voltage the power for the spark is proportionately
less..especially with inductive ignition. a cd is not as bad but it is made to
step up the battery to around 500 volts for the coil primary this is with 13.7
to 14 volts. if you only have 12 do the math.. If you have a bike engine that
turns 14000 rpm voltage is everything in my book.
Dave

Russel Mack wrote:
> 
> Glenn:
> I don't have the %power requirement for the lube system "off the top of my
> head", but I can probably find some good numbers with a little research in
> my library.
> 
> A "total loss" electrical system is frequently used when converting a
> "street" engine for (non-"endurance") racing.  It consists of running the
> battery without an on-board charging system (which consumes power), and
> doing your charging in the pits.
> 
> I'll see if Dave or someone offers some numbers for lube system power
> consumption; if not, I'll see what I can find.
> Russ, #1226B

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