Dave is correct about the electric's. While electronic devices are
sometimes designed to work on a wide voltage input range, 4-48 VDC for
some test equipment, most automotive electronics are designed for 13.8
VDC. There are racing ignitions that are designed for other voltages
but to run anything designed for the standard 13.8 at any other
voltage is just adding another item to the list of things that can
cause problems, in my opinion. I don't like to do that. A 40 amp
modern (high efficiency) alternator at 14 volts requires .8 HP if it
is 100% efficient. Adding 1.2 HP for resistive loss and bearing drag
we have 2 HP. if it's driven by a cog belt Add 1 HP, a flat belt add 2
HP for a total of about 3 or 4 HP at 8000. If your using a V belt,
add 5 HP.
I haven's used a dry sump at Bonneville but when I do, this is what I
expect. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Using a dry sump will allow
allow you to do two things that will make a car run faster. First you
can run lighter oil safely. Switching from 20-50 to 10-40 can free up
2-6%, depending on the engine (is it a 4 CYL or a V-12) The other is
to use an electric heater to pre heat the oil to 180 (+) degrees. This
will add a lot of power for the first two miles. I would pre heat the
oil so that the temp at the end of a run was 280-300.
Bryan (now, let's see now -- where did I leave my pocket protector and
6" slide rule)
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