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Re: MGB Clutch Pedal Hydraulics

To: mgs@autox.team.net, jdrex@microsoft.com
Subject: Re: MGB Clutch Pedal Hydraulics
From: Allen.Bachelder@vt.edu (Allen Bachelder)
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 10:38:28 -0400
> From: Jeff Drexler <jdrex@microsoft.com>
> My '69 MGB lost all pressure from the clutch pedal at a stoplight
> yesterday.
>

Jeff,

After you rebuild make sure that you use the proper brake fluid. The
MG's were made with natural rubber seals in the hydraulics, most
American brake fluids attack natural rubber. The manual states that
Castrol Girling be used. I use Castrol GT LMA. I've been told it is
compatable. Sombody tell me quick if it isn't. You can also use
Silicone fluid.

- -Mark       = =o&o

Mark & Jeff -
Just $0.02 worth more.  Castrol GT LMA is classified as DOT #4.  I do
always use it (except on the car I'm converting to Silicone) but the main
thing is to use DOT #4.  A lot of the stuff you see in parts stores is DOT
#3 - avoid it!

Don't mix the silicone (which is DOT #5) with DOT #4 (such as Castrol, etc.

The clutch MC is easy to rebuild - *much* easier than a dual brake MC.  But
-there are two types, and contrary to many of the catalogs, one is not
necessarily "early" and the other "late".  For one thing, POs have mixed
'em up.  Furthermore, the little stamped circle as discussed in Haynes on
the MC body doesn't necessarily tell you which type you've got.  You won't
really know until you get it apart.  SO-ooo - order both types of kits
(pretty cheap insurance) so you know you'll have the right type on hand.
Sooner or later, you or somebody you know will need the other kit for
another car.

I used a vacuum pump for bleeding the system.  Maybe I'm just lucky, but I
didn't have much trouble either.  Frankly, I don't think I ever got all the
air bubbles out of my last one, but it works fine - and it's almost a year
since I did it.

Allen



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