Randy.....
I suggest you plan to replace the left-side bearings again! 70 ft.lbs is
the correct torque once you have set the end float; 70 ft.lbs if you
haven't done that is enough to damage the bearings, evidence of which is
the hub becoming hot enough to boil out the grease......
Buy some shims before you tackle this job again! install the bearings
without grease but with just a light coat of oil. Selectively use the
shims between the outer bearing's inner race and the spacer, then do the
nut up tight. An educated guess at the correct end float is when the
wheel spins freely but you cannot wobble it. Keep trying different
combinations of shims until you reach the correct fit.
Once you have reached that happy medium, disassemble the hub again,
replace the oil on the bearings with grease, then reassemble and torque
to the 40 to 70 ft. lbs figure given in the manual ( the range is to
allow you to find a position where the split pin hole lines up with a
castellation in the nut.)
Lawrie
British Sportscar Center
www.britcars.com
On Thu, 21 Aug 1997 08:46:23 -0700 "Randy Rees (Volt Computer)"
<a-rrees@microsoft.com> writes:
>Here's the problem, The left front hub was even hotter than with the
>bad
>bearings, After driving to work I notice that I had grease all over
>the
>front rim, very hot melted grease, I used High temp disc brake grease,
>and torqued to the specified torque of 70 LBS. , is this maybe too
>tight? I left the original shim in place as I have no were to buy new
>ones right away and after reading the haynes manual, still did not
>really understand how to check end float.
>
>Any ideas? BTW the right hub is still cool to the touch. And I don't
>have any brake drag to over heat that hub.
>
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