I believe you mentioned in the original post that you had bought new rotors
too. You will not need to remove the calipers to change out the pads, but
you will need to remove them to put in the new rotors. Once the caliper is
removed (be sure and not let it hang by the brake hose, support it with a
piece of stiff wire) you can proceed to remove the splined hub (you had also
mentioned wire wheels). Getting the grease cap out and removing the split
pin out of the spindle is tricky if you've never done it before (comes out
through a hole in the hub). Once the nut is off, remove the hub and watch
out for the bearing and shims (you may want to go ahead and buy some shims
to have on hand regardless of whether you are going to change the wheel
bearings now or just repack them). With the hub off the spindle, replacing
the rotor is not too hard.
Bill Mills
'74 BGT
-----Original Message-----
From: James <James@LWSD.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, November 20, 1998 7:15 AM
Subject: Re: Brake JOB Do's and Don'ts
>>Uh, why are you undoing the tabs to replace the brake pads? The calipers
>>do not have to come off to replace the pads. In fact the only thing that
>>needs to come off to replace the pads is the wheel, and the two long
>>split pins on each caliper that lock the pads in place.
>
>Doh! That's what I get for leaping before I look.
>
>The undercarriage of the car is in such miserable condition (every single
>moving part rusted together into one amorphous mass - why the body shell is
>virtually rust-free when the rest of the car is such a rust bucket is a
>mystery to me) that I just proceeded with the front-end rebuild without
>paying any attention to how pads are replaced. Then, when someone answered
>the "how do I do a brake job" post with a warning to remember to replace
>the tabs, my little brain just assumed....
>
>- James Einolf
>'74 MGB (White on top, rust-red underneath)
>
>
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