Mike,
Was this the first start after a rebuilding, or after a long period of
disuse?
Was it running OK before the new points, condenser etc? Unlikely as it
seems, I experienced three new defective condensors at one time. Let's
hope I bought and destroyed all of a bad run. They sure caused me grief.
Have you double-checked wiring to plugs, 1 3 4 2 as the distributor
rotates anti clockwise?
A timing light clipped to each wire in turn can help identify one plug
that is shorted and not firing.
Have you any reason to suspect that the camshaft timing has
changed--new cam, new chain, new pulleys, etc?
If you are sure ignition is good and valves are adjusted, look for air
leaks in the carb and intake manifold connections. Once the engine
starts, you should be able to push in the choke within a few seconds of
starting, so (assuming electrics are OK) it could be lean mixture.
Are the dashpots filled with oil?
Playing the gas from an unlighted bernz torch around the gaskets is a
way to check for intake leaks. Gas that gets sucked in will raise idle
speed. Look for loose plugs in the ends of intake manifold--a backfire
can sometimes pop a plug loose or out.
Good luck-two more days of Labor Day weekend to go TD driving.
Bob
On Sat, 1 Sep 2001 10:02:42 -0400 "Mike Razor" <mrazor@mis.net> writes:
> Hard to start first time. Have to choke it to start until it warms
> up. Sounds more truckish than like an MG. New points, condenser,
> plugs, rotor, coil, checked timing and it was ok, was fouling plugs,
> leaned it out and does not appear to be fouling them anymore.
> Everything was gas fouled, to include the oil, changed that as well.
> Runs much better, but still not real good, has to warm up before it
> will really run right, will miss and backfire under load until it
> has
> run for a while. Has a intermittent miss and sometimes idle will
> stay
> high until I bump the gas pedal. Am lost as to what else to do or
> look for.
> THANKS!
> MIKE R
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