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Re: rebuilding SU's

Subject: Re: rebuilding SU's
From: "" <>
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 15:40:48 -0500
That is the reamer that I ordered and have received.If you look closely at
the cutting end of the reamer you see a very small bevel on the ends of the
flutes that facilitates the reamer to "dig in" and start cutting. I took it
to a machine shop and they said they would have to do it by hand and that
it didn't have to be beveled exactly alike on each flute since it only
caused the reamer to start "biting". The original instructions in MGB
Driver said you could use a white stone.
I think you have the procedure down as I see it. Insert the reamer shaft
into one of the old bushings using the shaft as a guide while turning the
reamer counterclockwise to get the BACK END of the reamer to do the cutting
away of the old bushing on the opposite side. Install new bushing. Reverse
the direction of the reamer using the new bushing now as a guide and bore
out the other old bushing. This should keep the bushings in alignment.
Kelvin suggested to use the end of the old throttle shaft, or even the new
one as a reamer to ream the inside diameter to the correct size by twirling
it into the hole using your fingers. This should work if the tolerance is
real close, as it supposedly is. 
I'm planning on doing this in the next month, so I'll let everyone know how
it goes.

Original Message:
From: Paul Root
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 08:13:04 -0600
Subject: Re: rebuilding SU's

The article on Barney's site gives the part number of the place. It
had an 800 number. My extensive research (typing and
finding that's not it, then typing enco manufacturing in my Google side
panel of Mozilla :-) yields and searching on the part
number 331-1124, gives $5.52.

So I have a couple of questions on this proceedure.

I don't understand the sharpening of the other end. I understand why,
I don't understand the how.

And in the actual reaming. What are we doing here? Do we:
ream out one side
put in one new bush
ream out the other side
put in other new bush
proceed with installing the throttle shaft?

This thread lead me to believe that we'd need to ream after we put the
bush in, maybe I didn't read well.

This is my January project. I gotta get a ceiling up in the laundry room
in December. :-) And finish painting my wheels this month.


MonteMorris wrote:
> Thanks Kelvin. Do you know of a source for a reamer that would be long
> enough to ream out both the bushings for the standard throttle shaft?
> Monte
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dodd, Kelvin" <>
> To: "'MonteMorris'" <>; "MG list" <>
> Sent: Monday, November 25, 2002 10:22 AM
> Subject: RE: rebuilding SU's
>>Any time you press a bushing into an interference fit hole, there will be
>>some compression of the inner diameter.  Good machining practice is to
>>always ream out the ID of any bushing after installation to ensure
> accurate
>>The ID must be accurate!  The only way to ensure accuracy is to run a ream
>>of the correct size through the bushing pair.  This also ensures that they
>>are in accurate alignment.
>>This is the difference between correctly rebuilding a component, and
> codging
>>one together.  In many cases codged parts work ok, but may end up with
>>binding or uneven working reistance.
>>>    2. If you did use these bushings, did they have to be
>>>reamed internally
>>>for the Moss STANDARD throttle shafts? The internal diameter
>>>SHOULD be the
>>>same as the supplied shafts, but according the  "Are You
>>>Rebuilding Your
>>>Carburetor" insert on page 77 of the newest Moss catalog
>>>(which says "press in
>>>the new ones and drill and ream them to fit the new throttle
>>>shaft"),  I'm
>>>interpreting this to mean they need to be re-reamed for the
>>>standard shafts to
>>>fit. This really doesn't make sense to me so can someone enlighten me?

Paul T. Root                    E/Mail:
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Minneapolis, MN  55413          WRK: +1 (612) 664-3385
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