I've had good luck painting letters on hubcaps and hood emblems. Use a can
of spray paint, mask off the general area, spray. Wait a little while and
then take a paper towel with a very small amount of lacquer thinner on it
and rub away the paint on the high spots, leaving the recessed letters
painted. After that, you can buff with a small piece of leather to get rid
of the haze. Doesn't leave brush marks, is quick, and no problem with
having to buy (and center) decals. Probably a good idea to scuff up the
recesses a little with steel wool beforehand to assure paint adhesion. Did
the same thing with the aluminum emblem on my "air flow" heater but, after
removing most of the paint from the high spots, I sanded the rest of the
paint residue away with some very fine sandpaper (prob. 1500 grit). (With
that said, the paint will probably start flaking off tomorrow).:)
Joe
50 3100
At 10:16 PM 3/24/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Not only are they a whole lot easier to put on, they are extremely low lying
>and are THE best looking next to actually painting it in by hand.
>Brad Rusnak
>b_rusnak@telusplanet.net
>1949 Chev 1/2 Ton Deluxe Cab
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: tcape <tcape@weblnk.net>
>To: Rob, Margie, Nick & Andrea <rjj0msj@ix.netcom.com>;
>oletrucks@autox.team.net <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>Date: Wednesday, March 24, 1999 2:06 PM
>Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Decals - opinion poll
>
>
>>Rob, I definitely agree on the decals. I just put the mylar "CHEVROLET"
>>letters on the dash of my '47 and they were awful to get into place. Same
>>was true for the letters I replaced on my hood emblem. They're very small
>>and hard to handle, and if you make a mistake, you can ruin a letter...and
>>therefore have to order the whole set again. The water-type labels would
>>have been MUCH better and much easier to use. However, I wonder if the
>>water-type labels would hold up in the weather (e.g., on hood emblem)? I
>>definitely agree that we should let the vendors know that we'd like to see
>>the water-type labels again. Don't know why they stopped making them.
>>Hey...I wonder if this is yet another government plot to screw up our
>>oletrucks?!! <he said, with a devious grin>
>>Tom Caperton
>>'47 2nd 3100
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Rob, Margie, Nick & Andrea <rjj0msj@ix.netcom.com>
>>To: buicks@onelist.com ; skylark@listbot.com ; oletrucks@autox.team.net
>>Date: Wednesday, March 24, 1999 1:10 AM
>>Subject: [oletrucks] Decals - opinion poll
>>
>>
>>>Does anyone else have a problem with decals in general these days.
>>Personally,
>>>I much preferred the water transfer types. Although they were more
>>difficult to
>>>handle, IMHO they layed down much smoother, and didn't have a tendency to
>>peel
>>>off at the edges like the mylar (heavy vinyl/plastic) ones do - plus, you
>>had
>>>more time to get them positioned JUST right (even the occassional folded
>>under
>>>edge could be worked out, or in an extreme case, the whole decal peeled
>>off, put
>>>into water, and replaced on the paper backing to start all over again.
>Not
>>so
>>>with the new fangled styles. Am I a lone voice in this regard? I used to
>>be
>>>able to get water transfer types to better mold to uneven surfaces,
>usually
>>with
>>>a little slit here, slit there, and the cut was almost undetectable. Try
>>that
>>>with the new peel off types. If others feel as I do, and would prefer
>>water
>>>transfer, maybe we should let the vendors know this. So, what are other's
>>>opinions? And IF others agree, does anyone know WHY water transfers are
>>losing
>>>out to the new style peel offs?
>>>
>>>Rob
>>>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>>>
>>
>>
>>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
>
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
>
Joe Clark, Southern Appalachian Field Laboratory
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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