On Wed, 10 Nov 1999 mrndr2@juno.com wrote:
> It being the off season here in Pennsylvania, we're mucking around with
> the tow vehicle situation. Does anyone have any
> real-honest-in-the-driver's-seat information about towing with the Dodge
> 2500 vs. the 3500 pickups? There are relatively small differences (much
> smaller than I expected) in what Dodge says they can tow. (3500 has a
> bigger PAYLOAD, but since I have no intention of putting the Toyota in
> the bed, that seems less relevant.)
Correct, except in the case of towing a 5th wheel or gooseneck trailer.
That's when you'd want the 3500 the most.
> The 3500 has some suspension differences (bigger bar, but that's free in
> Stock...uh, wait, wrong subject),
You have no idea how many people have asked me what class the thing would
fall into. I keep telling 'em I don't know, and don't care, at least not
until I get a rear swaybar and some Kumhos for it. ;)
(Gee, does Kumho make 215/85-16 tires? j/k)
> a heavier duty alternator, the dually,
> the mandatory long bed, but there's not as much difference between the
> 3/4 and the 1 ton as I expected there to be.
The 3500 has even bigger rear brakes I believe, and the higher payload
rating. That's pretty much it. You can get a 2500 essentially the same
way, just without the dual rear wheels, and therefore the lower payload
capacity.
> SO...has anybody towed with both? Or either?
Just with my 3500. I chose it because I wanted the most truck I could
get. Many of my friends think I'm crazy for having bought a dually,
saying that "all you're doing is towing a car." Yeah, TODAY that's all
I'm towing. The ultimate goal is to put a truck camper in the bed (the
actual RV style camper), which will weigh around 3500# loaded, thus
exceeding what the 2500 could carry. OR, I might get a nice big 5th wheel
travel trailer at some point.
Also consider that you have to take into account the tongue weight of your
trailer and subtract it from the payload capacity of the truck, in
addition to the actual weight of the trailer.
For example, my 26' open trailer (that includes the tongue length) weighs
2300# all by itself. Add my '86 Corvette to that and you get
approximately 5500#.
Then we have my truck ('96 RAM 3500, Club Cab, 4x2) with an in-bed toolbox
and in-bed aux fuel tank. I'm estimating the weight at 7500-7800 lbs with
a full tank of fuel (60 gallons), and with me in it. GVW on the truck is
10,500. That leaves 2800-3000# of payload capacity. Consider that if the
truck was a 2500, and all else being equal, that'd leave me about 500 lbs.
So 10% tongue weight (the minimum recommended weight for proper trailer
balance) in this example would be 550 lbs. BAM, I'm already over the
payload rating if I had a 2500, and I still have 4500# left in the trailer
rating. However, since it's a dually, I still have 2300-2500# (roughly)
left to haul stuff in the bed, like tires, more tools, etc.
> Anybody see any problems with my current favorite configuration? (Or
> have experience with the 2500 that suggests it would be fine?)
> 3500 (with the dually and the long bed)
> Club Cab
> Cummins Turbo Diesel
> 3.54 with the 5-sp or 4.10 with the 6-sp
If you're talking new, get the 6sp, if you can. They're still on
restriction. I strongly suggest waiting until the end of Jan to order, as
DC is cutting of the 2000 models end of December, and the 2001's will be
out early. The 6sp diesels will have a 245 hp/505 lbs-ft rating starting
in Jan with the 2001 models.
However, I strongly suggest AGAINST the 4.10 gears unless you're going to
tow nothing but REALLY heavy loads. You just don't need it, and you're
gear limited to 85 mph with 4.10s (110 with 3.54s), which translates into
better fuel economy with the lower gears. The diesel has more than enough
torque to pull with 3.54s.
PLUS, with the aftermarket tuners already having power upgrades for the
ISB 24v motor (see www.tstproducts.com), you can upgrade it to 275 hp and
660 lbs-ft with just a computer module, and not even lose fuel economy in
the process.
My older, all-mechanical motor (the B5.9) has been upgraded the
old-fashioned way with a torque plate. Same basic idea, just a little
more work. Mine makes around 350 hp and 800 lbs-ft, and I still get 18
mpg commuting, and 15 while towing. I can pull a 6% grade at
half-throttle in OD (mine's an auto) at 65-70 mph easily, and my EGTs are
only around 900 deg.
These trucks just plain rock. No offense to Ford or Chevy owners. :)
> 4WD (although I'm aware of that weak link--the Toyota doesn't come out to
> play in the snow, so I need something that can actually make it up the
> driveway)
If you're going new, 4WD is a good idea for resale if nothing else. I
bought mine used, so it wasn't a requirement.
> Oh yeah, and I'd like the color to be Driftwood, cloth interior, AC, &
> cruise, just in case Santa Claus is a team.net subscriber... The tow
> package would be fine, but seems less critical if it's a manual?
Get the tow package because it includes the wiring for the receiver plug
and the electric brake controller, which you'll need.
Email me privately and I'll send you the info on teh various Dodge RAM an
diesel mailing lists so you can learn all you can before taking the
plunge.
Rob
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