datsun-roadsters
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Re: Fwd: Pulling the Engine

To: Thomas Walter <walter@omni.sps.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Fwd: Pulling the Engine
From: james moore <jmoore1@erols.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 21:34:52 -0500
The fluid coming out of a 5 speed is an issue if the speedometer gear is 
removed.
OOPS!!!!!!

That's what happened to me.

Jim Moore
69 2000 RHD

Thomas Walter wrote:

> > I can't remember if this was in the orginal post, but very important to 
>drain
> >the oil from the transmission.  Otherwise it starts coming out the rear seal
> >as soon as you tip the engine.
>
> Joseph,
>
> This is not an issue with 2000's five speed's, but with the 1600 four speed:
>
> A neat trick is to "plug" the rear of the transmission. This can be done
> with the front part of an old drivesahft, or by using a large SOCKET, and
> putting some duct tape over the 1/2" drive opening.
>
> Even when draining the transmission, so tranny fluid will still drip out
> the tail shaft opening. I *hate* transmission fluid in my hair, so the
> socket trick works nicely.
>
> ENGINE TILTER.  Check out http://www.eastwoodco.com  for a picture of
> one. Makes like so much easier to tilt the engine/transmission to clear
> the front of the roadster, and then level back out.  Being the cheap
> person I am, I made my own. Much heavier, with double safety features.
>
> I used used-but-good rear axle bearings from the roadster, and 1"
> steel bars.  Lathe and milling machine work). So for 10 hours work,
> and $6 of material I have a pretty nice engine tilter.
>
> OIL PAN on the engine: I've never pulled it too pull the engine. I would
> keep it on the engine. Keeps oil from dripping all over, and the engine
> clean (especially after a rebuild).
>
> OTHER HINTS:
>
> After I have the block "hot tanked" by the machine shop, and all the maching
> operations done:
>
> Put it on an engine stand.
> Roll it out onto the driveway.
> Big bucket of TSP (phospate cleaner), heavy rubber gloves, scrub brush.
> BIG CAN of WD-40. (Yes, I do buy it in the gallon jugs, and use a spray 
>bottle).
> Hose the engine down,
> Scrub like made.
> Use WD-40 on the machined surfaces to prevent rust spots.
> Air dry everything. GOGGLES PLEASE. As the air nozzle goes across the
>           threaded holes... watch out.
> Once spotlessly clean, pull a large garbage bag over everything.
> This is also a great time to spray a light PRIMER on the cast surfaces,
>   let it dry for a few days. Follow up with your engine paint (I like
>   GM corporate blue.  I think Les Cannady has the correct paint color).
>
> THREADED HOLES: I will use a pick and shop vac to clean every little hole.
> Amazing the amount of trash that gets in there (rust, metal shavings, etc).
> Run a thread chaser down into the the engine bolt holes (even "metric
> engines" have 7/16-14 tpi threaded head bolt holes). Then I use a counter
> sink to clean up the top of the bolt holes. Makes treading easier, and
> eliminates raised threads.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Tom Walter
> Austin, TX.




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