SpitListers,
Changing the cam does not have to be a big deal.
Choose a 'mild' cam that will work with stock
valvesprings, and it can be installed in an afternoon.
Yes, you must remove the radiator, cyl head, crank
pulley, front cover, degree the cam, and reassemble,
but the motor does not have to come out.
Get new lifters, an upper block gasket kit, and go for
it. If you have a spare cyl head, get it 'massaged'
beforehand, then intall it in place of the stocker.
Even a dead stock motor, if in reasonably good shape,
will benefit from this.
Bear in mind, the cam change affects the whole RPM
range, so even if peak HP is not raised much, the
character of the motor will be changed for the better.
I have run both the 'B' cam and the 'A-6' on the
street, most people will be happy with the 'B'. Carbs,
header, headwork, etc. just make the cam changes even
more effective.
JMHO
Carter Shore
--- "Banbury, Terrence"
<Terrence.Banbury@dnr.state.oh.us> wrote:
>
> Ted, that is exactly what I wanted to know and what
> I suspected! Looks like
> when it bothers me enough, I'll pull the engine and
> dump some money into it,
> at which point, I would be inclined to max it out,
> but not to the point that
> it would be a 'track only' car.
> I hope to stop by your place sometime this summer
> to check out the salvaged
> stuff.
>
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