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Re: Front end and Steering

To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Front end and Steering
From: Gary Tash <tashg@bmi.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 09:30:01 -0700
Re the steering:  It's not so much tighter as it is like a depression or a
flat spot.   The gaiters appear in good shape and well sealed.  However,
the motion along the rack does feel, sound rough.   You're right,
disassembly and inspection is a minimum at this point.  I was just
wondering if there are parts available for a rebuild, if necessary - or is
it better to look a new or rebuilt assy.

Re the wheel/suspension:  The ball joints seem good and tight.  I have one
side disassembled because I'm rebushing, so have direct access to
unencumbered ball joints.

Carter Shore wrote:

> --- Gary Tash <tashg@bmi.net> wrote:
> > 1.  When I move the rack and pinion through its
> > range of motion by
> > turning the road wheel directly  I notice a detent
> > in the middle or
> > straight ahead position.  It takes some extra effort
> > to move the wheel
> > in either direction from straight ahead.   I had
> > also begun to notice
> > this while driving.  Is this a reparable problem? or
> > is total
> > replacement indicated?
>
> Sounds like contamination on the rack, as wear would
> make it looser, not tighter. Are the gaiters (bellows)
> in good shape, no cracks, etc? A new set is pretty
> cheap. But at least some diasassembly and inspection
> seems called for. Next to brakes, steering is sacred!
>
> > 2.  When I grasp the road wheel at the top and push
> > toward the engine
> > bay there is a small but noticeable movement in and
> > out, it is greater
> > on the passenger side.  What should I be looking for
> > as I disassemble
> > the wheels, etc.?
>
> Do you get the same play when you rock the tire side
> to side? Could also be upper ball joints, or control
> arm bushings. Ball joints are easy to replace, just
> tricky breaking loose the tapered studs from the
> upright. I loosened the stud nut, then managed to
> apply jacking pressure from underneath to the stud. I
> used a drift (1" dia x 6" long steel rod) placing the
> end right against the top of the upright where it
> curves around to meet the ball joint stud. A sharp
> hammer blow released the tapered stud.
>
> Whatever the problem you discover, good luck with the
> project.
>
> Carter
>
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