TeriAnn may have a point about synthetic. I've rebuilt two A types recently.
In the past working straight transmissions I've been happy with synthetic
gear oil. But Both transmissions started slipping in OD. Today the second
started slipping without OD when I pushed hard in first.
I think I'll drain the box, flush it with Deisel and refill it.
Any comments on this strategy?
>Reply-To: "Chris Kantarjiev" <cak@godzilla.studio.sgi.com>
>X-UIDL: 802654201.027
>
> "It is essential that an approved lubricant be used when refilling,
> preferrably a straight mineral oil with a viscosity between SAE 30 and
> SAE 50 with no E.P. additives.
>
> ON NO ACCOUNT SHOULD ANY ANTI-FRICTION ADDITIVES BE PUT INTO THE OIL."
>
>Right. And we've recently determined, in this thread, that the gear oil and
>engine oil viscosity scales are different, and that the gear oil viscosities
>that correspond to those mentioned above are in the 75-90 range.
>
>Note the phrase "straight mineral oil". That means, in particular, no
>multi-viscosity oils, and no additives. Engine oil these days is almost
>exclusively multi-weight (yes, you can find it straight) and has a witch's brew
>of additives to help foaming and to minimized the deleterious effects of blowby
>on white metal bearings.
>
>In short, it's hard to *find* the "old formulation" oils, at least if you look
>at the engine oil shelves. (Want a challenge? Find a modern oil that
>corresponds to Shell Donax 250 weight gear lube from the late 60's!)
>
>I recommend that you use what has worked for others, and not try to second
>guess what a 30-40 year old technical publication means in today's oil market.
>I've been very happy with modern GL-4 rated gear oils in my Laycock overdrives
>in Triumphs. I don't plan to change soon (though I'm often tempted by a
>synthetic that won't thin out so for the D type in my GT6+; I'll probably solve
>that problem by adding some cooling).
>
>
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