Ed,
Thanks for your response. I have a couple more questions if you do not mind.
When you talk about removing the play between the gearbox arm and the slave, are
you refering to the play between the clevis fork and the furthest point the
gearbox arm can extend moving towards the slave, or the play in the gearbox arm
itself?
I am asking because I was under the car today and found that the gearbox arm
itself freely travels a good inch (moving away from the slave) before I can no
longer move it by hand (the point where it starts to engage the clutch). I
also notice this inch of free travel while driving. Should I adjust the clevis
fork so that it takes up the inch of play in associated with the gearbox arm
itself, or simply adjust it so it meets the gearbox arm where the arm is closest
to the slave?
Thanks,
Jordan
Ed Woods wrote:
> Dennis,
>
> Don't know if someone's already given you advice, but here's mine:
>
> If you have a spring type clutch, not diaphragm, the return spring is
> required to establish clearance between the throwout bearing and clutch
> cover when the clutch is engaged. Assuming you have this type, the clutch
> rod between the slave and the arm from the gearbox must be adjustable. With
> the piston fully home in the slave cylinder, the rod should be capable of
> removing all play between the gearbox and the slave. Is it? To adjust: with
> the piston fully home in the slave, unscrew the rod until all play is just
> removed. Back the locking nut away from the clevis fork an amount equal to
> the desired clearance. Put a feeler gauge between the nut and clevis fork to
> set this. Can't remember the exact distance, check the manual. 60 thou would
> work. Without moving the nut or fork, remove the rod assembly and screw the
> clevis fork back until it touches the nut. Re-install. Tighten nut. Install
> return spring. The spring should serve to hold the rod fully into the slave.
> If you grab the rod with your hand, you should be able to move it to the
> rear by an amount equal to the clearance you just set before the throwout
> bearing comes hard up against the clutch pressure plate. You should be able
> to use the middle or bottom hole in the clutch shaft.
>
> I assume that: The bolt connecting the fork to the shaft is not broken. The
> slave cylinder is on the gearbox (rear) side of the mounting bracket. The
> slave bleeder is facing up.
>
> Any questions, please contact me.
>
> Regards,
>
> Ed
> -----Original Message-----
> From: J. Robinson <jrobins@nwc.net>
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, September 03, 1998 12:08 AM
> Subject: Re: TR4 hydraulics
>
> >
> >Dennis - if is any consolation, you are not alone. I am having similar
> >troubles right now with the clutch on my TR-4. Brand new clutch and pp,
> >freshly rebuilt slave and MC - am awaiting delivery of a new hose with high
> >hopes...........
> >
> >Jordan Robinson
> >TR-4 CT28864
> >
> >Dennis Barr wrote:
> >
> >> Hi List: Apologies if this has been around before. I am still having
> >> problems getting enough hydraulic pressure to operate my clutch. I have
> >> a new slave; a White-Post rebuilt MC. Bled and bled system. Works when
> >> the return spring is detached- hook up the spring, and "grind grind" . I
> >> cannot get the thing in gear.
> >> I have no leaks. I replaced the pipe and hose today. Neither cylinder
> >> shows leaking. How do I determine whether I should reinvest in another
> >> clutch slave, or remove (ugh) the clutch MC and send back to White Post.
> >> Your help is appreciated.
> >> Dennis Barr
> >
> >
> >
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