Issac
When you adjust the valves it doesn't matter which is the exhaust or which is
the intake as long as the recommended valve gap is equal for both.
I assume you've pulled your plugs and can somehow turn the crankshaft. I like
to put a socket on the alternator and hold the belt tight enough with my hand to
turn the engine. You can go back and forth and get the valves so that they are
exactly opened if you watch them very closely. Using a socker on the alternator
takes longer than using a remote starter control but I think the time is worth
it to get an exact adjustment.
Follow the Haynes manual chart and do it twice if you're in doubt about the
first few adjustments you did because you're gonna get better at it as you go
along. When I did my valves (it was a 1000 mile adjustment because the engine
was rebuilt a year ago) 7 our of 12 valves had to be adjusted, some had just a
little too much gap and others had too little gap. The advice I've been given
is that you have to get your mind in a zone when adjusting valves and carry the
same "feel" of tension when sliding the feeler gauge in and out to all the
valves so that they are equally gapped. I did a tight 0.010 on mine and tried
to get the same resistance on every valve. It worked wonders.
Good Luck
Bud 71 TR6 CC57365
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Subject: Stupid Question about adjusting GT6 valves
Author: Isaac Crow <isaac@avana.net>
Date: 9/25/98 11:24 AM
I am ready to adjust my valves on my '70 gt6+ engine. How do I tell
which valves are exhaust and which are intake? My engine is at TDC, so
which valves should be adjusted.
My Haynes manual has a little chart stating that when (such and such)
valves are fully open, adjust (such and such other) valve clearances.
Does anyone have a simple set of instructions for doing this task? It
would be just like me to overtighten and exhaust valve or something.
Isaac Crow
'74 Spit6+
Winder, GA
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**Work is the curse of the drinking class. **
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