> I'm fairly certain that the fuel and temperature gauges are
> fed at 10V, but I don't have a regulator at hand to be certain.
Although 10v is given as the nominal voltage, the original 'stabilizer'
actually never puts out 10v. Instead, it switches between battery voltage
(12-14 volts depending on engine rpm) and 0v. The gages used with this
system respond so slowly that you can't see them wiggle, however if you
connect an ordinary test lamp into the circuit, it will flash on and off.
> Years back I replaced the flasher unit on our Dolomite with a
> solid state type. A replacement of the original type had given
> the symptoms Randall describes, but the solid state type dropped
> straight in and worked first time. Sorry I can't remember the
> specifics, but it was nothing exotic and avoided any wiring
> changes, however minor,
Not sure if it's sold in the UK, but in the US, a Tridon EL13 will work
without any changes. However, I've been having trouble with them both
failing rapidly and refusing to flash at low system voltages (my alternator
won't keep up with the radiator fan, stereo & high power headlights at hot
idle), so after the third one in 4 years failed completely, I decided to try
an old thermal unit. The thermal units are also a lot cheaper, about 1/3
the price of the electronic ones. And at least the one I got will keep
flashing down below 11 volts.
Randall
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