> I guess one other question I
> have....if bleeding it the classic way with 2 people, do I need
> to bleed at the lines where they meet the master cylinders before
> moving on to each calliper and wheel cylinder?
As Tom suggested, it depends on whether the master has been "bench bled" or
not. The MC must have mostly fluif in it, or it will not develop enough
pressure to force fluif through the lines.
However, Triumph MCs seem to be pretty forgiving, so I just pour the MC full
of fluid on the bench, no fancy hoses or anything, then install the MC on
the car. If it proves to be necessary later, you can bleed a bit right at
the MC outlet (assuming of course you're using DOT 5).
Last time I did the clutch MC on my TR3A I was in kind of a hurry ... never
even took the MC off the car, just disassembled it "in situ" and reassembled
with new seals. Did a few quick "self bleeding" cycles (pump the pedal
until the clutch releases, hold for 10 seconds, release for 10 seconds),
flushed away the worst of the spilled DOT 5 with a garden hose, then took
off on a run. Worked just fine.
I'll have to sleeve that MC one of these days, seals just don't last as long
as they used to, probably because the bore is pretty rough. But, seals are
cheap, and it's not that big a deal to change them every 5 years or so.
Besides, I've got the process down pretty pat.
Randall
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