triumphs
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RE: removing TR3 windshield stanchion

To: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>, <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: RE: removing TR3 windshield stanchion
From: "Peter Ryner" <pryner@verizon.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 18:22:23 -0500
I second that suggestion.  I bought one from JC Whitney many years ago and
still use it all over my LBCs.  Great for getting the screws out of the door
hinges too.  I believe I paid less than $10 for it. As for cutting a hole
inside the body, I've done that too.  It works well for the stanchions with
screws as you can get a grip on the nut, but doesn't help much for the dzeus
fasteners. Be careful if you cut the heads off to remove the stanchions.
You'll have to disassemble the windshield frame to get the stanchion away
from the body.  They don't bend much. Also be careful of using a grinder on
the heads as you don't want to damage the stanchion around the bolt head.

Pete

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Monday, January 24, 2005 2:33 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: removing TR3 windshield stanchion


> I think my use of tool might be the weak link and
> wondered if anyone has tips for a better tool-
> something with more torque.

First tool to my mind would be a "manual" impact tool, where you beat on the
end of the tool with a sledge hammer.
http://www.autobarn.net/lis29200.html
I've had one of these for many years, it was absolutely indispensable for
working on motorcycles.  The hammer blow forces the driver blade into the
slot just when it's needed, and the impact of the blow helps free the
threads.  Saw one in Home Depot the other day, but didn't check the price.

Not sure how well it would work, backed only by the sheet metal, but I'd
sure give it a try.

> Perhaps a 3/4" wide slot
> attached to a 1/2" breaker bar???




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