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RE: Starter update #2 -- now it's wiring

To: "Andrew Frink" <tr4@drooartz.com>, "triumphs"
Subject: RE: Starter update #2 -- now it's wiring
From: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 16:14:28 -0700
> Had the alternator (Delco) tested, and
> it is okay. Looked at the wiring, and compared it to some
> documentation the PO included. Seems to be some issues, especially
> with the wires that originally attached to the voltage regulator
> (removed and non-functional according to PO, but I do have it). All
> those wire were just hanging out, not connected to anything.
>
> I'm trying to sort it all out, and am a bit confused. I'd love any
> insight folks might have. The PO did replace the wiring with a new
> factory-looking loom, so I'm hoping that the wire colors are still
> fairly consistent with the originals.

Drew, the TR4 originally had a generator, which has considerably different
wiring than your alternator.  The original control box is unneeded, unless you
want to keep it for appearance or as a junction block.

Your Delco alternator should have 3 terminals on it, a largish stud marked
"BATT" and a two-prong connector marked "1" and possibly "2".

BATT is the output, and needs to be wired to the battery.  Personally, I like to
run it through the ammeter on the dash, so the ammeter correctly still indicates
battery charge, but opinions vary on this (eg Dan Masters said to do it the
other way).  To keep the ammeter function, connect BATT to the juncture of the
brown/white and brown/blue wires where they were removed from the "A" and "A1"
terminals of the original control box.  This connection should be made with
large gauge wire, at least 10 AWG (I used 8 AWG as I had some on hand).

However, if you don't trust the wiring to/from the ammeter to carry the extra
current, you can wire it to the hot terminal on the starter solenoid instead.
That will make your ammeter read discharge (assuming it was properly switched
when changing polarity) all the time, even when the battery is being charged.

"1" goes to the warning light on the dash.  You can connect it to the original
small brown/yellow wire that was on the "D" terminal of the control box.

"2" is the sense input.  The system will work fine if you just wire this to the
BATT terminal at the alternator, however I prefer to connect it to the hot
terminal on the starter solenoid.  That way it can compensate for any voltage
drop through the charging circuit (including the ammeter).  That's exactly why
GM put it there, so they could use smaller gauge wire in the charging circuit
but still get accurate voltage regulation even at high output currents.
Jumpering it to the BATT terminal will limit battery charging to some extent,
because the voltage drop in the wires makes the battery "look" more fully
charged than it really is.

HTH
Randall




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