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RE: Starter update #2 -- now it's wiring

To: "triumphs" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: Starter update #2 -- now it's wiring
From: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 19:33:24 -0700
> <<BATT is the output, and needs to be wired to the battery.  Personally, I
> like to
> run it through the ammeter on the dash, so the ammeter correctly still
> indicates
> battery charge, but opinions vary on this (eg Dan Masters said to do it the
> other way). >>
>
> I have NOT read what Dan says BUT Randall, NO!!!!

You're welcome to your opinion, Ed, but I have run the configuration I recommend
for almost 30 years on two different TR3As and been very happy with the results.
I far prefer to have properly working instruments, and having them look or
better yet be the original instruments is a plus, in my opinion.  The wrecked
TR3A is still wearing it's original ammeter, and the 'new' TR3 will be the same
way, when I get around to doing an alternator conversion on it.

On the second car I converted, I did add an external shunt to the original
ammeter (but mounted right on the back of it), so the needle wouldn't hit the
pin every time I started the car, but I don't believe it's essential.  There is
no "shunt" per se inside the original ammeter, instead it's a "moving vane" type
movement and the current flows through a single loop of rather heavy gauge solid
copper wire.  It's resistance is very low and the overload only lasts for a few
seconds, so there is absolutely no chance of the gauge overheating.  I just
don't like seeing instruments go off-scale under normal conditions.

> You would be using what is know as an Internal Shunt instrument and that
> REQUIRES a HEAVY, i.e. S/B Battery Cable size, wire.

Nonsense !  The current here is no more than the maximum output of the
alternator, 50 or 60 amps depending on which model you choose.  And normal
current is almost zero since the alternator will have the battery recharged
within minutes of starting the car.  The _factory_ wiring on my 1980 Chevy with
an 85 amp alternator was _smaller_ than the original wiring on my TR3A !

> IMHO, for the average LBC, a VOLT meter is way better<G>!

IMO voltmeters don't tell the whole story.  Neither do ammeters, but I still
like ammeters better.  And it's tough to find a voltmeter that looks at home in
a TR3/4 dash.

YMMV of course
Randall




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