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RE: Preparing to Remove TR3A Head

To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: Preparing to Remove TR3A Head
From: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2005 19:24:21 -0700
> 1.    What's the best bet to use for a replacement head  gasket?

IMO the stock composite gasket is best for a stock motor.

> 2.    Given the mileage since the rebuild, are there  other items to address,
> inspect or replace while I'm in there?

Certainly wouldn't hurt to feel the piston ring ridge, to estimate cylinder
wear.  Be sure to check that the liners stand proud by the recommended amount,
on BOTH sides; and that the head is flat.

Since it seems like your rebuild might not have been just right, it wouldn't
hurt to disassemble the rocker shaft either, to inspect and clean.  They can
sometimes fill with sludge and block lubrication to the rockers.  You could have
a look at the valves & guides too, but they're probably OK.

> 3.    Will the head studs will need replacement, or can  they be inspected
> for wear or stretch?

Run a new nut (not one of the old head nuts) down the fine thread portion.  If
it turns easily all the way to the end of the threads, the stud is likely OK.
Also look for any obvious signs of damage, like deep rust pits.

> 4.    Other than a head gasket and possibly replacement  studs, should any
> other parts be ordered as a matter of course?

Manifold gaskets, thermostat gaskets, and unless you have one of Justin's
silicone ones, a rocker cover gasket.  You might get away with reusing the old
ones, if they come off cleanly, but I'd certainly have new ones on hand.  If the
engine overheated at all, you might want to have a new thermostat on hand, too.
Oh yeah, new lockwashers for the manifold nuts and probably new nyloc nuts for
the rocker cover.  If you disconnect the manifold/head pipe union, you'll
probably need a new gasket, lockwashers and nuts.  I always use copper-based
anti-seize on the manifold studs.

> Thanks for all advice.

The book says you have to remove the carbs, undo the headpipe, and remove the
manifolds, but I've found that, at least on my TR3A, I can leave everything
attached to the manifolds, and just pry it all to the side while removing the
head.  Then the manifolds, with carbs still attached, just hang on the headpipe.
I only disconnect the fuel line at the carbs, and the vacuum line at the
distributor.

HTH
Randall


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