- 41. Re: Spin-on oil filter (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
- Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2004 12:52:41 -0700
- I use Wix# 51516. I've cut Wix and Fram open ... the Wix is much better constructed. Plus, the Wix retains more oil between starts. bs ** Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net '67 Austin-Heal
- /html/healeys/2004-08/msg00016.html (7,440 bytes)
- 42. Re: BJ8 Projects (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
- Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 18:32:34 -0700
- re: headers Since the Healey exhaust is a (semi) rigid setup--not like Merkin pipes, which are loosely hung ;)--the stock downpipes have the 10" piece of flexpipe to handle the engine movement w/o st
- /html/healeys/2004-08/msg00055.html (9,802 bytes)
- 43. Re: tri-carb (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
- Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2004 06:42:05 -0700
- Sounds like you're describing the vent tubes/pipes that bolt onto the top of the float bowl and take a (rounded) 90deg bend downward. These should have a fuel-proof plastic tube attached that is rou
- /html/healeys/2004-08/msg00084.html (8,588 bytes)
- 44. Re: tri-carb (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
- Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2004 08:21:28 -0700
- Yep, you're right ... Shoulda paid more attention to the subject line. Sorry. bs ** Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M ** "Sounds like you're
- /html/healeys/2004-08/msg00088.html (8,325 bytes)
- 45. Re: Steering Box (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
- Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 18:05:28 -0700
- It's a PITA, but I've done it. 1) drain the oil (it'll come out anyway when you remove the seal, if you prefer) 2) use a hooked pick--or take a thin-blade screwdriver and bend about 1/16" of the tip
- /html/healeys/2004-08/msg00177.html (8,498 bytes)
- 46. Re: electronic fuel pump conversion (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
- Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 19:57:17 -0700
- I did the conversion ... it ran for a couple hundred miles then quit. Would pump (air) like crazy on the bench but not in the car. Bought new and I've put 5,000 miles or so on it w/o any problems. S
- /html/healeys/2004-08/msg00179.html (8,009 bytes)
- 47. Re: Brake servo. (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
- Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2004 09:26:42 -0700
- Thought of one more thing: Before you pull the servo, check the vacuum supply to the servo; this could cause the symptoms you described. Check for low vacuum or a blocked vacuum line; there should b
- /html/healeys/2004-08/msg00348.html (7,015 bytes)
- 48. test - delete (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
- Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2004 16:02:03 -0700
- ** Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M ** Check out the new British Cars Forum: http://www.team.net/the-local/tiki-view_forum.php?forumId=8
- /html/healeys/2004-08/msg00354.html (6,542 bytes)
- 49. Re: should I undercoat my --- (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
- Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 08:44:53 -0700
- Never tried it with undercoating, but "3M Adhesive Remover" seems to work well with most kinds of gooey gunk. Expensive, though. bs ** Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net '67 Austin-Healey
- /html/healeys/2004-08/msg00367.html (7,802 bytes)
- 50. Re: Brake servo. (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
- Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2004 09:11:18 -0700
- Check the archives ... this has been discussed a lot in the last year. To sum: A servo rebuild isn't a whole lot trickier than a master cyl rebuild. Read your shop manual--you do have one, I hope--u
- /html/healeys/2004-08/msg00399.html (10,300 bytes)
- 51. Re: "Dynamo-style Alternator" (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
- Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 08:29:17 -0700
- I was (almost) ready to order one until I saw "negative ground only." I wish they'd make one for "authentic" cars. bs ** Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austi
- /html/healeys/2004-08/msg00507.html (8,051 bytes)
- 52. Re: "Dynamo-style Alternator" (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
- Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 09:13:11 -0700
- Ya got me there ;) bs ** Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M ** Check out the new British Cars Forum: http://www.team.net/the-local/tiki-view_f
- /html/healeys/2004-08/msg00509.html (7,661 bytes)
- 53. Need Battery Recommendation (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
- Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 16:26:54 -0700
- The 5-yr battery in my BJ8 gave up the ghost today, after a measly 7+ years ;) It was an Eveready brand bought at Costco and it's the best battery I've ever seen ... never corroded the terminals or c
- /html/healeys/2004-08/msg00521.html (8,276 bytes)
- 54. Re: Need Battery Recommendation (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
- Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 16:52:23 -0700
- "The OEM stuff is crapola and that's just what the car companies want and pay for." Agreed (can we say "Lucas" ;) bs ** Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austi
- /html/healeys/2004-08/msg00525.html (8,647 bytes)
- 55. Re: Need Battery Recommendation (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
- Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 21:22:46 -0700
- Got a lot of great replies ... appreciate them all. Needed to replace quickly, so went with one from the local parts house that's been good to me; "Advantage" brand. Considered the Optima, but @ $12
- /html/healeys/2004-08/msg00533.html (9,017 bytes)
- 56. Re: Rear wheel oil seal - replacement at home? (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
- Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 21:51:50 -0700
- It's been a few years since I've done this but, yes, you can do this at home. You have to remove the brake drum and the axle (pretty easy). The hub is pressed on and also held with a large 8-sided nu
- /html/healeys/2004-08/msg00534.html (10,384 bytes)
- 57. Re: Rear wheel oil seal - replacement at home? (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
- Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 07:17:20 -0700
- I thought of one last thing: If the surface where the seal rides is grooved, you may have to sleeve it--RediSleeve is one brand of sleeve kit--and use a seal with a smaller ID. If you just replace th
- /html/healeys/2004-08/msg00544.html (8,987 bytes)
- 58. Re: Is this the Problem? Rear wheel oil seal - replacement at (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
- Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 13:51:13 -0700
- 'Fraid I can't be much help here ... I was working from memory and unfortunately I don't recall that much detail. Just about every seal I've replaced, though, needed to be bedded completely in it's
- /html/healeys/2004-08/msg00554.html (9,558 bytes)
- 59. Quote of the Day (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
- Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 20:14:52 -0700
- "Isn't that the best-looking sports car you've ever seen!" - Ian Forrest, Racing Instructor, in a heavy Scottish brogue after evaluating a 3000 Mk II for the "A Car Is Reborn" series. I only understa
- /html/healeys/2004-08/msg00559.html (7,329 bytes)
- 60. Re: oil leak (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
- Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 07:41:11 -0700
- The only "seal" on the rear main of a Big Healey is a screw-like groove on the crank that is supposed to route oil back towards the pan (unless you've added an aftermarket seal). These are a machine
- /html/healeys/2004-08/msg00579.html (8,743 bytes)
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