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References: [ +from:tr6@kc4sw.com: 258 ]

Total 258 documents matching your query.

101. RE: anyone replaced steering column bushings? (score: 1): Author: "Stephen Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 07:14:30 -0700; I also found that the felt bushings were shot in mine, Cheap and fairly easy to replace Steve Bob, Replacing these bushings is just time consuming because of how far down you have to tear the column; /html/6pack/2003-05/msg00126.html (8,036 bytes)
102. RE: Oil Pressure Idiot light on '76 TR6 (score: 1): Author: "Stephen Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 10:07:29 -0700; You don't have an "open" you have a "closed". The switching on these is low side to ground. The 12 volts goes through the bulb and then to what ever switch is appropriate. In this case I suspect you; /html/6pack/2003-05/msg00150.html (8,171 bytes)
103. RE: Exhaust hanger question (score: 1): Author: "Stephen Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 08:18:36 -0700; If you mean the passenger side, front of muffler, mine was a through hole mount on the back side of cross member that supported the hydraulic damper/diff. Not very descriptive I know, but look for a; /html/6pack/2003-05/msg00190.html (7,372 bytes)
104. RE: Weird Brake Issue (score: 1): Author: "Stephen Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 12:13:44 -0700; If you've already heard this ooops, but replace the master cylinder. Mine was doing something very similar to that. the brakes would work for a bit and then need two or three pumps to work again. Re; /html/6pack/2003-05/msg00344.html (8,425 bytes)
105. RE: Calling all experts (score: 1): Author: "Stephen Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 07:17:21 -0700; The Smart A... answer is that if it walks like a duck, quacks..... You have too much air getting in somewhere. Since you mention that the compression is up, and that you had the head worked on start; /html/6pack/2003-05/msg00410.html (10,076 bytes)
106. RE: Electrical Question (score: 1): Author: "Steve Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 21:01:08 -0700; If you're gooing to ugrade the alternator by all means upgrade the size of wire from the alternator to the battery. This may cause a problem going through the Ampmeter though. You may want to conside; /html/6pack/2003-05/msg00433.html (10,417 bytes)
107. RE: turn signals (score: 1): Author: "Steve Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 21:26:27 -0700; Look at all of the grounds for ALL of the lights and for that matter every elses in the car. Also I found that ereryone of the "bullet" splices were either corroded beyond belief or broken (or both); /html/6pack/2003-05/msg00478.html (7,990 bytes)
108. RE: Distributor (score: 1): Author: "Stephen Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 07:57:40 -0700; Depending on your definition of play, that might not be the problem. With everything disconnected (advance/retard stuff) there should be at least 15 degrees of rotational play. On my '72 the timing; /html/6pack/2003-05/msg00485.html (7,866 bytes)
109. RE: Right Rear Brake hose (score: 1): Author: "Stephen Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 12:37:46 -0700; I've read many of the answers, but I'll throw my 2 cents in anyway. The proper tool for any pipe like this is the Flare Nut wrench. They look like a 8 faced box wrench but have a slot just big to al; /html/6pack/2003-05/msg00555.html (7,664 bytes)
110. RE: Starter (score: 1): Author: "Stephen Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 06:58:17 -0700; Hi all, The special mentioned by ken below is going on right now, I saw the ad over the weekend. The high draw could be (probably is) related to one of the following 1. bad starter relay/solenoid 2.; /html/6pack/2003-05/msg00571.html (9,601 bytes)
111. RE: carb mixture adjustment (score: 1): Author: "Stephen Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 09:39:53 -0700; My '72 has them but the PO had fouled them up so bad they would not adjust (they leaked too). the big three have the stuff to fix them. Steve Al, if it's a stock 73, it has adjustable needles. I thi; /html/6pack/2003-05/msg00578.html (7,504 bytes)
112. RE: TR6 vacuum cleaning (+) (score: 1): Author: "Stephen Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 12:48:05 -0700; You've cleared up a question on my system. I wondered about the brass fitting on the rear carb. I plugged mine up but, like you, never showed any vacuum on that port. I looked at the fitting but nev; /html/6pack/2003-05/msg00585.html (10,826 bytes)
113. RE: Accelerator shaft bushings (score: 1): Author: "Stephen Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 12:48:05 -0700; I couldn't resist. "BA" should be familiar to anyone who has worked on a house. it means "British Average" sort of like a carpenter who says "1/2 inch, that's close enough" Steve Just thought I'd add; /html/6pack/2003-05/msg00586.html (12,040 bytes)
114. RE: Koil Konfusion (score: 1): Author: "Stephen Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 07:13:45 -0800; I know I can answer number 3, This is most likely a condenser that was added after the fact for radio noise suppression. US type cars (the older ones) had them installed almost without exception. As; /html/6pack/2003-04/msg00022.html (9,258 bytes)
115. Not really LBC, Radiator cap help needed (score: 1): Author: "Stephen Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 07:05:24 -0700; My dad has an old (WWII) vintage Onan generator. It has a convection driven water cooling system. The radiator cap is made mostly of brass, and appears to be a bit bigger that a "normal" cap, and is; /html/6pack/2003-04/msg00388.html (6,688 bytes)
116. Electrical stuff (score: 1): Author: "Stephen Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 07:05:23 -0700; While looking for information on how to explain the "chasing a short" thread, I found this website. Pretty good info with drawings. http://www.autoshop101.com/autoshop16.html Steve tr6@kc4sw [demime; /html/6pack/2003-04/msg00389.html (6,475 bytes)
117. RE: Chasing a short (score: 1): Author: "Stephen Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 07:34:47 -0700; Hi All, I've been watching this thread from afar, my connection would not allow replies, and have the following observations. 1. The ignition circuits can not be involved IF they go through the ignit; /html/6pack/2003-04/msg00400.html (8,519 bytes)
118. RE: Chasing a short -- Resolution (score: 1): Author: "Stephen Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 12:45:46 -0700; On the other hand I'd be real worried if I measured any voltage with any meter between the negative post of the battery and ground. Steve Dwayne: Remember that a digital voltmeter has an input imped; /html/6pack/2003-04/msg00433.html (9,346 bytes)
119. RE: RPMs WAY too high ! (score: 1): Author: "Stephen Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 10:00:28 -0700; Spares are a wonderful thing, or being a pack rat pays off once in a while steve tr6@kc4sw.com A number of years ago, when I purchased my TR6, I got a whole bunch of spares as well. One of the items; /html/6pack/2003-04/msg00596.html (8,371 bytes)
120. RE: RPMs WAY too high ! (score: 1): Author: "Stephen Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 10:00:29 -0700; Might as well weigh in here, Get a friend (unless you own one) with a portable GPS receiver and measure your speed with that. It's about 2 digits more accurate than the speedometer, and you can do it; /html/6pack/2003-04/msg00597.html (9,164 bytes)

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