Good Bob, so I am not alone. I also had rust through with dot 5 and on a
southern car with no road salt factored in.
I also had braking and clutch problems on a racecar that were as a
result of using dot 5 (cost me about $30k). Of course racecars generate
a lot more heat than do the majority of the cars on this list.
I guess what I am saying to the list is this; If you go out and get
hooked on racing with a car that has dot 5 fluid in it, change it to a
racing fluid!
Otherwise go with dot 5.
Mike Munson
Hi,
Regarding localised rust in your brake system.
Based on sad-but-true experience I can say unequivocably that you do not
want this to ever happen to your brake system. At the pressures
involved,
it's amazing how fast you can empty a master cylinder reservoir through
a
tiny pinhole in a brake line.
I have had this happen and the sinking feeling of pushing the brake
pedal
to the floor is something that you don't want to repeat. EVER.
Use whatever fluid you like, but passing off the kind of damage that you
can get with brake fluids that don't absorb water (e.g. localised rust)
as
trivial is very, very dangerous.
The right thing to do is to keep up the brake system just like every
other
system on your car by doing periodic maintenance. If you haven't rebuilt
your brake MC in 15 years on _any car_, you're asking for trouble. I
just
add "check brake lines" as a step when I'm under the car fixing
"whatever". If there's any sign of rust on a brake line, it's "outta
there" and replaced with new.
Regards,
rml
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