Did you alter the combustion chamber? In this article he claims that is
where the hp is, not in proting. I am going to see if we can successfully
scan this thing and send it out by E-mail. Will take a few days though.
the computer genius, my 14 year old son, is to be comatose on the floor, and
I will be real late getting home tomorrow.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Locke" <glocke@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Barbara Blue" <the_blues@worldnet.att.net>; "Alpine list"
<alpines@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 7:34 PM
Subject: Re: More Power from the 1725
> Hi Bill
>
> Please send me this article. My address is 8 Griffin Ave, Epsom, Auckland,
> New Zealand.
>
> I ported my head according to David Vizards instructions (from his book
> "Theory and Practice of Cylinder head modifications") and it would have
made
> a good 10hp difference without any other mods being done (standard twin
> strombergs and cam). It is really the key to unleashing power on one of
> these engines.
>
> Going to webers and a wild cam now would prob give a further 25 hp
> (depending on cam), whereas if the webers etc go an a standard head you
may
> only get 15 hp all up and the engine won't be as nice to drive.
>
> The head work takes a lot of time, but is fairly inexpensive if you do all
> the hard stuff yourself. Allow a good 40 hours.
>
> Balance the engine too, which will give a safe 6500 red line in short
> bursts.
>
> You can bore well over .040, (as per MR ZAG) just a custom head gasket
will
> be
> required.
>
>
> Greg Locke
> learner race engine builder
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Barbara Blue <the_blues@worldnet.att.net>
> To: <alpines@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, 8 March 2001 13:03
> Subject: More Power from the 1725
>
>
> > In amongst the parts, spares, and old pieces of chewing gum that came
with
> my
> > first car was a reprint of an article (source unknown) seemingly titled
> > "Chrysler 1600/1725" by David Vizard. I am going to condense some of
his
> > comments and recommendations here for others to comment on, as there
seems
> to
> > be more than a little interest in getting more power (including me).
> >
> > HEAD Reshape the combustion chambers.
> > Intake- blend out the irregularities, and streamline the guide boss
> into
> > the valve guide
> > Exhaust- smooth and match to exhaust system
> > Valve Seats- radiused into the port and chamber
> > Skim head 60 thou
> > These are good for 12-17 hp, which he says is a do it yourself project.
> >
> > CARBS Stromberg 150's for street use.
> > Weber 28/36 is smoother, slightly less hp. Not recommended
> over
> > the Strombergs
> > Weber DCOE 40 for ultimate power if camshaft is modified
> >
> > FREE FLOW EXHAUST - 5hp
> >
> > CAM Holbay with timing of 58-66--84-40
> >
> > BLOCK No more than a 40 thou overbore!
> >
> > Using Webers on the 1600, he claims 100hp without the Holbay camshaft!
It
> > appears that with a hotter cam, a person can get really nice results for
> > something like $200. Anyone that wants a copy of this article, E-mail
me
> > your address and I'll send it to you. Caution, it is an old copy and
not
> the
> > best I've seen. Mr. Vizard tends to ramble, and things get confusing,
at
> > least to me, so I may have misintepreted somethings.
> >
> > Jay, what do you think of this??
> > Bill
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