On Saturday, November 22, 1997 2:17 AM, Greg Monfort
[SMTP:wingracer@email.msn.com] wrote:
>
> >*** Front Suspension:
> >At least a set of new poly bushings. As I understand it, I can get
these
> >from AMC performance people. Any sources?
>
> Do you really want that harsh and noisy a ride? Check out Super Shops. We
> just did a '69 Z28, ruined it for the street.
Do you have an address/phone # for these people? Do they have any Bricklin
experience?
I didn't realize that the poly bushings would have such an effect on NVH
levels. I just have heard (and find it easy to believe) that the Bricklin
is a "wallower" with loose, numb steering response. I've never driven a
car with the poly bushings either, but they're such a popular and
oft-recommended part of a performance build up that I kind of took it for
granted that they'd help me get what I'm after.
I should mention also that I'll be moving to a set of 17-18" wheels (most
likely the 5-spoke Mustang Cobra 18" ones) with some modern tires on them.
The way I see it, this could go one of two ways in affecting my suspension
setup choices:
1) The drastically increased sidewall stiffness could take enough of
the
front suspension mush out that a new set of rubber bushings would do just
fine.
2) The drastically increased sidewall stiffness could transmit much
greater forces to the suspension, making it feel even mushier and requiring
the poly bushings to deal with.
Any thoughts?
Also, does it make sense to consider wider wheels & tires than stock? My
car had 255/60-15's on the back and 235/16-15's on the front when I got it.
Is there room for something wider? Would I gain anything by going a bit
wider?
> The wheel wells won't allow much lowering without reducing tire size. Not
a
> good tradeoff. Again, check with Super Shops.
Has anyone out there lowered their cars at all? Perhaps with the Brick's
relatively lower centre of gravity it isn't so critical. I do think mine
would look better if it came down an inch, though.
> Rack and pinion is nice and weighs less, but may not fit without
redesigning
> the entire front end. Is the P/M unit heavy duty enough for the
Bricklin's
> weight and compatible with the existing pump?
I was planning on going to a non-power steering setup ;) Seriously though,
I don't know the answers to either question. I don't see having to go to a
different pump a big deal (certainly not as big a deal as "redesigning the
entire front end"), but I'm open to suggestions...
Is there any way to improve the stock recirculating ball setup?
> >*** Rear Suspension:
> >At least a posi unit with disc brakes (like the 9" unit from a Lincoln
> >Versailes).
>
> Disc brakes would be nice, but be sure and add an adjustable
proportioning
> valve since you want very little rear braking force.
Definitely.
> Again, the front limits how much you can lower. Stiffening will make the
> rear end slide/bounce even more since there's no weight in the rear. An
> anti-roll bar and watts linkage is the ticket here.
That sounds fair. I thought that the SV-1 was a natural understeerer
though - might slightly stiffer rear springs help that, or is it better to
use the anti-roll bar to neutralize the handling?
> >I'm also considering going to an independant rear suspension, either a
> >Vette or Jag rear end. I believe that this would be the most expensive
of
> >any of the chassis/suspension mods I'm thinking about, so I'd really
like
> >to hear some feedback. Has anyone done this kind of conversion? Was it
> >worth it? Has anyone considered this and decided against it? Why?
>
> I helped put a Cobra kit together years ago with a Jag rear. It cost
about
> $5500 for parts and refurbishing. It would definitely be a big
improvement
> over a solid rear in both ride and handling with the proper shock/spring
> combo.
That sounds like a bit more money than I'm willing to spend on just a rear
end. I have to admit that I haven't really shopped around for this kind of
thing yet - is it naive of me to think that a vette rear would be quite a
bit cheaper? That Lincoln 9" posi live-axle setup is looking better all
the time... If I was going to spend that much, I'd up the ante a wee bit
and get my hands on a beat-up C4 vette and rob both the front and rear
suspension from it...
> >* That one is a quote - I'm not sure I get it. Is there room under the
car
> >to weld up an 'X' frame brace? With the passenger compartment hanging
down
> >below the frame, wouldn't this be awfully difficult? If Gregory or
someone
> >else could email me some kind of diagram I'd really appreciate it.
>
> I'll get back to you when I have more time.
That would be terriffic.
> >I'm also curious about the "torque boxes" at the 4 corners of the main
> >perimeter frame. we were told by Terry that they were engineered for a
> >certain amount or type of flex, and that this is important. Can that
> >really be true? Why wouldn't I want that chassis as stiff as I can get
it?
>
> Beats me. Sprint cars , dragsters, go-carts, motorcycles can be too
stiff,
> but road racers? The only guess I can make is that because the chassis is
> very weak, these boxes are designed to damp some of the suspension
induced
> harmonics.
Talk about putting out fire with gasoline ;)
> >Any advice, info, insight, flames, or encouragement would be very much
> >appreciated.
> If you're really serious about a street racer, it would probably be
cheaper
> and less headache to buy a used Trans-Am racer and adapt a Bricklin body
to
> it. :^))
Sounds good - as long as I can get the original dash in there with the
Bricklin VIN I shouldn't have trouble getting it registered, eh? ;)
> A buddy of mine bought an old short track Winston Cup Thunderbird less
motor
> for next to nothing and dropped in a 500 in3 to play with.
That's quite a toy. Beats the hell out of a slinky ;) I'm not 100% sure
what you mean by "street racer" or "really serious", so maybe I should make
my goals clear: I want to get the engine's output up to the point where
I'm looking at 10lbs/hp (should be reasonable with new heads, cam, headers,
& 4-barrel intake or EFI setup, no?), and I'd like handling to be
not-a-lot-worse than my '88 RX-7, if that's possible without moving
mountains, or giving up driveability entirely. The car's main purpose in
life will be driving, with the occasional autocross a remote possibility.
Thanks for any advice,
--
Phil Martin pmartin@isgtec.com
"This room smells like Hotel Illness,
The scars I hide are not your business."
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