Seth, balancing the engine doesn't mean you use it anymore than you actually
use 650 CFM. What it does is give you a lot of driving flexability,
particularly with a manual transmission (which I am fitting). Just about all
aftermarket performance cams are rated to at least 6000RPM and will increase
max power and torque points in the RPM range. Generally the safest way to go
is to buy a cam kit that provides valve springs, otherwise you can get into
a valve float problem. 'Course a cheap and nasty way to solve that problem
is to shim the standard valve springs but again that can only be done if the
cam profile does not increase the lift, only increases valve open duration.
Another important point on the 351W is that it has "rail rockers", these
should be replaced with the "guide plate" set up when upgrading for which
kits are readily available.
The simplest upgrade would appear to be to install a stock '69 351W with the
4 barrel which gave 290 HP from the factory.The problem is it was close to
11 to1 CR, now if you could find a way to drop the CR (pistons?) you would
still get a good thump in the back on acceleration. Mind you a '71 will give
220 HP with 9 to1 CR which is a better way to go.
With respect to carb size, for street use it is better to undersize to
ensure some depression at idle so that the engines "manners" are still
reasonable.
Owen Evans
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