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Re: OT-Metal Cutting

To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: OT-Metal Cutting
From: "Taro Kusunose" <tkusunose@hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 18:33:07 -0800
You can also opt for an oxy-acetylene welder with a cutting tip.  Welding 
shops and even the Sears catalogs have pretty good portable ones for decent 
prices.  On the up side, when you are done, you can also use the set up for 
welding things together (although not as easily on the thin gauge stuff as 
with a MIG welder). On the downside, how precise your oxy-ace cuts are, 
really becomes a function of how skilled you are with the cutting tip.

Taro in Seattle
'67 1600


>From: Daniel Neuman <dneuman@quark.sfsu.edu>
>Reply-To: Daniel Neuman <dneuman@quark.sfsu.edu>
>To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
>Subject: OT-Metal Cutting
>Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 16:17:43 -0800 (PST)
>
>Hello All,
>       As Irene and I are getting more into metal work (custom tubular stain
>less steel bumpers anyone??) I find that we need something better to make
>reasonable precision cuts in metal.  Right now we use a hacksaw and 4" 
>right
>angle grinder with cutoff wheel and a tubing cutter.  We will be cutting 
>round
>and square tubing, plate steel and maybe some solid round/square rod.  
>Ususally
>the metal will be less than 1/8" but sometimes 1/4" might be needed.
>       Can a 'cheap' <200USD band saw do this type of work??  Does anybody
>have any other idea of what Ican use to cut this type of metal??
>
>       thanks,
>               Daniel 69 2000
>
>Oh, I know that you were all worried but I got the tubing bender bolted to 
>the
>garage floor just fine.  I used progressivly bigger carbide tipped masonary 
>bits
>to go up to the 3/4" final size.  To get thru the rock I just used an old 
>dull
>masonary bit and held it with a pair of needle nose vise grips and wacked 
>it
>with a hammer. Hammer drill-bah.  I used lag-bolts and it appears to be 
>working
>just fine.

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