Any amount of oil is not going to help, if the chain is loose enough to
slap it then the Evil-L will eventually get torn off. Besides, the metal
fragments getting scraped off can't be doing your bearings any good!
There are only two smart solutions if the Evil-L is gouged.
1) Remove it by snapping it off, and then later on fix the loose timing chain
problems that caused the Evil-L to get gouged.
2) Take apart the timing setup and fix the loose timing chain problems that
caused the Evil-L to get gouged.
A third solution is to shim the tensioner etc. to stop the loose chain problem.
But if you're going to that much trouble, why not snap off the Evil-L at that
time?
Rather than attempt exotic solutions like an oiler tube, why not fix the engine
to specs so the chain doesn't slap the Evil-L? This may be a problem with heads
that were shaved too much, but replacing the timing gears and chains should be
normal maintenance every so often on a 2000 (every 60,000 miles or so?).
Fred - So.SF
http://www.2xtreme.net/fredkatz
_______________________ Reply Separator _________________________
Subject: Re: The "Evil L" and it's removal...
Author: "Patrick P. Castronovo" <slick1@mohaveaz.com>
Date: 5/16/2001 11:08 AM
It is obvious to me that that part does not hav oil running to it. I wonder
if fashioning a tube from the oiler to that bracket where the chain rides,
would lube it sufficently that this would help to eliminate the problem.
-----Original Message-----
From: Russell Southwell <rulee@cityscape.net>
To: Gordon Glasgow <gsglasgow@home.com>
Cc: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 8:12 AM
Subject: Re: The "Evil L" and it's removal...
>Gordon, after looking at your excelent pictures of the evil L , I,m
wonering if one
>can,t weld the damage ( TIG) and reshape it? or is it a hardened piece, or
wierd
>alloy?
>Russ Southwell 70 1600, 4 Dead 2L
>
>Gordon Glasgow wrote:
>
>> I can't think of any way to cut it off that won't introduce a lot of
metal
>> shavings into the engine. Why not just shim the tensioner and take the
slack out
>> of the chain? If the timing chains are new and the head hasn't been cut a
ton,
>> it should be easy.
>>
>> Your timing will not be affected by that chain. The timing is controlled
by the
>> lower chain (from the crank to the jackshaft).
>>
>> To Chris: Yes, the "Evil L" is that upper bracket. And here's how bad
they can
>> get:
>> http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/images/Evil_L_3.JPG
>> http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/images/Evil_L_4.JPG
>> http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/images/Evil_L_2_closeup.JPG
>>
>> Gordon Glasgow
>> Renton, WA
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
>> [mailto:owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ken Pearce
>> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 11:13 PM
>> To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
>> Subject: The "Evil L" and it's removal...
>>
>> Questions questions questions...
>>
>> 1.) I want to remove the "Evil L" before my timing chain does the job
for
>> me. I took off the valve cover today to inspect it, and while the
knotches
>> worn into the bracket are only about a 1/16" deep, I don't like the idea
of
>> metal shavings in the engine. All the timing components are almost new,
I
>> just need to get cam tower shims when I have the $$$...
>>
>> What's the best way to remove the piece of the bracket? I would rather
not
>> remove the cam sprocket if I don't absolutely have to. If I have to cut
it
>> with a hacksaw, I would have to stuff clean rags down the front of the
>> engine to prevent any shavings from falling down there. Maybe a magnet
>> placed directly below the sawing would help? Will the L just break off
if I
>> put some vice-grips on it and start bending? It doesn't look like I can
get
>> a dremel in there. :(
>>
>> 2.) Assuming I get the L removed, is my engine timing affected that much
my
>> the chain being a little loose at low rpm? I guess I could check it with
a
>> timing light at various rpm levels...
>>
>> 3.) I bought one of those really cool stainless steel SU carb
heatshields
>> last year at Shasta but still haven't installed it. Has anyone installed
>> one of these without pulling the carbs? Every way I try to slide the
>> heatshield in there is blocked by something of other...
>>
>> I did a little arc welding today with the throttle cable and the positive
>> battery terminal. Very exciting! Of all the places that cable could
have
>> landed, it had to be on the terminal! Murphy's way of reminding me to be
>> more careful!
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Ken Pearce, 68-2000
>> Bellingham, WA
>>
>> _________________________________________________________________
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