On the same note, what about a gusset or two underneath the L to help
support it and prevent vibrations from causing stress cracks and future
failure?
>From: Russell Southwell <rulee@cityscape.net>
>Reply-To: Russell Southwell <rulee@cityscape.net>
>To: Gordon Glasgow <gsglasgow@home.com>
>CC: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: The "Evil L" and it's removal...
>Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 08:12:51 -0500
>
>Gordon, after looking at your excelent pictures of the evil L , I,m
>wonering if one
>can,t weld the damage ( TIG) and reshape it? or is it a hardened piece, or
>wierd
>alloy?
>Russ Southwell 70 1600, 4 Dead 2L
>
>Gordon Glasgow wrote:
>
> > I can't think of any way to cut it off that won't introduce a lot of
>metal
> > shavings into the engine. Why not just shim the tensioner and take the
>slack out
> > of the chain? If the timing chains are new and the head hasn't been cut
>a ton,
> > it should be easy.
> >
> > Your timing will not be affected by that chain. The timing is controlled
>by the
> > lower chain (from the crank to the jackshaft).
> >
> > To Chris: Yes, the "Evil L" is that upper bracket. And here's how bad
>they can
> > get:
> > http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/images/Evil_L_3.JPG
> > http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/images/Evil_L_4.JPG
> > http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/images/Evil_L_2_closeup.JPG
> >
> > Gordon Glasgow
> > Renton, WA
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ken Pearce
> > Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 11:13 PM
> > To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> > Subject: The "Evil L" and it's removal...
> >
> > Questions questions questions...
> >
> > 1.) I want to remove the "Evil L" before my timing chain does the job
>for
> > me. I took off the valve cover today to inspect it, and while the
>knotches
> > worn into the bracket are only about a 1/16" deep, I don't like the idea
>of
> > metal shavings in the engine. All the timing components are almost new,
>I
> > just need to get cam tower shims when I have the $$$...
> >
> > What's the best way to remove the piece of the bracket? I would rather
>not
> > remove the cam sprocket if I don't absolutely have to. If I have to cut
>it
> > with a hacksaw, I would have to stuff clean rags down the front of the
> > engine to prevent any shavings from falling down there. Maybe a magnet
> > placed directly below the sawing would help? Will the L just break off
>if I
> > put some vice-grips on it and start bending? It doesn't look like I can
>get
> > a dremel in there. :(
> >
> > 2.) Assuming I get the L removed, is my engine timing affected that
>much my
> > the chain being a little loose at low rpm? I guess I could check it
>with a
> > timing light at various rpm levels...
> >
> > 3.) I bought one of those really cool stainless steel SU carb
>heatshields
> > last year at Shasta but still haven't installed it. Has anyone
>installed
> > one of these without pulling the carbs? Every way I try to slide the
> > heatshield in there is blocked by something of other...
> >
> > I did a little arc welding today with the throttle cable and the
>positive
> > battery terminal. Very exciting! Of all the places that cable could
>have
> > landed, it had to be on the terminal! Murphy's way of reminding me to
>be
> > more careful!
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> >
> > Ken Pearce, 68-2000
> > Bellingham, WA
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
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