We used a stock passenger-side alt mount bracket (three bolt type that
bolts right onto the block), with a 1-1.5" (I don't know exactly how long)
bolt spacer and a piece of straight steel bent to brace the backside of the
alternator and I fabricated a strong tensioner bracket for the top that is
held on by the top two timing cover bolts.
At 09:40 AM 5/20/01 -0400, datsunmike wrote:
>Yes, all early cars including the 67.5 2Ls had the alt mounted on the
>passenger side as did all Canadian cars because they didn't need emissions
>equipment.
>
>I do believe, if my memory is correct, that several people I knew used the
>air pump bracket to mount a Chrysler alt. as it's mounting ear was much
>thicker and brought it in line with the other pulleys.
>
>Mike
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <jon_wissler@pngc.com>
>To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2001 7:35 PM
>Subject: Alternnator Part II
>
>
>> For those of you who enjoy living vicariously through the uninformed,
>> I present you with the following situation. If you recall, I thought I
>> blew the alternator in my car. Tested dead. I went to pull it out, and I
>> find that the hot wire has corroded off the post, and the post is
>EXTREMELY
>> loose and swirly in the alternator housing. So I pull the SOB (NOT an
>easy
>> task on a 2000), and run it to United Battery in Portland to have it
>> rebuilt. No problem the guy says, should be ready by Monday afternoon.
>> Off to a wedding my wife and go in the rig (69 Chev, sense a pattern?),
>and
>> I get a call on my cell on the way home from United Battery. Good old Pat
>> says I cooked the everliving crap out my alternator, and suggest replacing
>> it with a (drum roll please) 66 amp Delco (GM) one wire. He says the
>> Mitsubishi unit, which he can get, is absolutely worthless. He says the
>GM
>> will bolt right in to the existing setup. Unconvinced, and completely
>> automotive electronics illiterate, I go to the shop to speak with him face
>> to face. He's seems familiar with Roadsters (I made his day when I told
>> him about the Datsun meet at Blue Lake park June 4th), and swears that he
>> has sold alts for a number of conversions and that it's a piece of cake.
>> So I take the plunge for $63 and now I'm getting ready to give it a shot.
>>
>> Now comes the good part. Am I right in that the early 1600's came
>> with the stock alt on the pax side? He kept talking about 1600's, and I
>am
>> beginning to question whether or not this is going to "slip right in".
>The
>> dimensions are a little bigger, although the holes appear to line up. I
>> had a hell of a time getting the old one out, having to pull all the rad
>> hoses and loosen the window wash reservoir before I could in to the damn
>> thing. This guy insisted that:
>>
>> The only wire I need to hook up is the "one" hot wire.
>> No need to ground.
>> No need to fusable link.
>> Ammeter should still work, would only possibly get blown out if I
>> drew a charge of greater than 30 amps, which should only happen if
>> I'm stone cold dead.
>>
>>
>> So tell me what's wrong with this picture. It sounds too good to be true.
>> Daniel Beatty put the Summit racing 100 amp model in his 1600 and he only
>> hooked up the one hot wire also, and he says it works fine. He hasn't
>> wired back up his ammeter yet though. I'll be out in the garage futzing
>> with the "drop it right theory", but if you have any dire warnings or good
>> advice, shoot it to me. I'd do the "move to the other side" project, but
>> it looks like the bracketing issues on a 2000 are a lot more complex than
>> my feeble skills. If it fits in the old space, you guys can show me how
>> the hell to move at Blue Lake on the 4th. Thanks in advance.
>>
>> 69 SRL
>> NOWROC
>> Troutdale, OR
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