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Re: To plug or bridge?

To: snyler <marc@animalfirm.com>,
Subject: Re: To plug or bridge?
From: Adam Bradley <ambradley@yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 10:27:47 -0700 (PDT)
I plugged my intake manifold with 1/4" brass plugs, available in your
local hardware store in the plumbing department.  At least I believe
they're 1/4", someone correct me if I'm wrong.  They are not a perfect
fit - an interference fit - and only thread in part of the way, but
they seem to seal well.  For the smaller plug, I just used a vacuum cap
as I could never find anything to fit there.

I used a 7127-12 alternator, about $50 at most auto parts store.  You
can also use a 7127SE, which is "self exciting".  The -12 stands for
the position of the two wire plug on the case.  12 is a good choice; 3
will also work.  I'd avoid 6 (points down) or 9 (points towards the
engine).  For the 7127-12 or 7127-3, jumper a small wire from the
second connector to the alternator hot wire.  This is to excite the
alternator so it will start charging.

Use 8 gauge wire to go from the alternator to the + terminal on the
battery.  NAPA auto parts sells the crimp-on 8 gauge connectors; I had
a hard time finding them (Home Depot, OSH, Kragen's, etc. do NOT sell
them, although OSH has better pricing on 8 gauge wiring).

To mount the alternator on the passenger side, I used two of the
cylinder spacers to push the alternator forward from the smog pump
bracket.  This lines up really well with the water pump and crankshaft
pulleys.  I used two hex nuts (really long, don't know what they're
called) as spacers for the other two bolts that are used to hold the
triangular bracket (the one that normally meets the smog pump and the
two spacers).  I purchased an 8" long bolt (SAE thread) for the
alternator/spacer/smog pump combination and appropriate sized metric
bolts for the timing cover (I forget the exact size).

Oh, and I had to use a bunch of washers to push the upper smog
pump/alternator bracket forward.  If I had to do it again I might try a
GM alternator bracket, which would give more room for adjustment.  I've
only got about 1" of alternator movement (from engine to end of
bracket) and that doesn't give much room for putting the fan belt on.

The most important thing - the fan belt I'm using is 15380.  If you use
a longer alternator bracket, you'll probably want to get a little bit
bigger fan belt.  I don't know why you'd use a serpentine belt, as
there are only three pulleys - crankshaft, water pump, and alternator.

Since PictureTrail is down, I posted pictures to ofoto.  Go to 
<http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?m=28334698103&n=1433215583> (and no, you
don't need to remove your water pump to install this, although you'll
need to remove your radiator to get the old alternator out)

--- snyler <marc@animalfirm.com> wrote:
>      On a 1970 1600 there are a couple of hoses leading from the smog
> 
> pump to two fittings, one on each arm of the intake manifold.  Is it 
> better to simply plug them, or to fit a bridging hose?  
>      Also, what have people done to move the alternator to the RH
> side on 
> 68-70 cars?  Most, it seems go for the one wire alt.  (any specific 
> models popular?)  and do folks use a second belt from the water pump 
> double pulley to the alt, or do they use a serpentine belt?  Some of
> this 
> is ground well covered i know, but as many of you know, it's hard to 
> remember when it's not your task at hand  :-)  I have started a
> "helpful 
> tips" folder that I copy messages to when I think the info might come
> in 
> handy in the near future.  Let's see how it works.
> 
> Marc T.
> 
> 
>
==========================================================================
> Marc Tyler
> Sisterdale TX
> TDROC 
> 1970 1600 #SPL311-31016
> 1965 L-320 #L320 013642 
> 1965 L-320 Parts car  
> 
> http://datsun_marc.tripod.com/cgi-bin/datsun_homepage.html


=====
Adam
'70 1600 SPL311-28181
http://www.picturetrail.com/abend
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