I had a boat for almost 20 years. It sat in a lake the whole time. I had
to overhaul the Evenrude engine twice, once when the auto oiling went
out and ate the crank and cylinders, and one when the flywheel key
sheared and burned a hole in one of the pistons. As I recall all the
fasteners were stainless. I had no problem getting the fasteners out,
and found no corrosion anywhere on that power head either time.
There are any number of "stainless" steels and I have no idea what type
was used in that engine. Maybe I should go down and buy a bolt or 2 and
try to determine what type it is.
Peace,
Pat
Mike H. wrote:
>Make no mistake, as a boat owner, I can tell tell you, after following all
>the numerous responses concerning using "stainless bolts" into aluminum, it
>is NOT the PERFECT solution. There can still be severe enough corrosion to
>cause problems, although not as bad as regular steel. If there are any
>roadster owners who are long term boat owners as well, now is the time to
>chime in! Marine supply catalogs (West Marine, etc.) offer much useful
>information regarding the galvanic, corrosion activity of dissimilar metals
>in contact. They sell products that specifically mitigate this issue. I will
>say in general, stainless to aluminum contact in a "non-salt water"
>environment is not near as severe as regular steel. In a salt water
>environment, it can be as bad or worse than our experience with the thermo
>housing. I have replaced all my exterior "dress" engine bolts with stainless
>because they will hold their appearance "better" and are cheaper than having
>them chromed. However, on my thermo tower, I chose to use regular steel
>bolts heavily coated with anti-seize compound going in to the aluminum head.
>I can tell you from experience, stainless can seize up really fast and tight
>with itself OR aluminum! At least when there is "seizing", mild steel is
>much more forgiving and less damaging to aluminum than stainless.
>IMHO,
>Mike Hudson '67-1600
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Daryl Smith" <drlsmith@telus.net>
>To: <Keith0alan@aol.com>; <sandhoff@csus.edu>;
><datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 7:28 PM
>Subject: Re: Water tower removal soak option
>
>
>
>
>>I have used the method Kieth outlined with two exceptions: I didn't use a
>>drill, and I used a big rubber mallet. I have removed three this way with
>>
>>
>no
>
>
>>damage, but it took a few days for each.
>>First I would heat it with the toech till the moisture quit bubbling from
>>around the studs, whack it in every direction with the mallet, soak it in
>>penetrating oil, and leave it overnight.
>>After a few cycles of this, sometimes 2 or 3 in a day they have all come
>>loose and were able to be pried off carefully with no damage.
>>The first one I replaced the studs with stainless steel bolts and used
>>liberal amounts of antisieze. 5 yrs later it came off without a problem.
>>
>>Daryl
>>
>>From: <Keith0alan@aol.com>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>Try this. Take a 1/16 " drill and carefully drill between the stud and
>>>
>>>
>the
>
>
>>>housing. After drilling out all the rust you can, fill the space with
>>>penetrating oil. Heat with a propane torch till the penetrating oil just
>>>starts to
>>>bubble then add more penetrating oil. Then tap the sides of the tower
>>>
>>>
>with
>
>
>>>a
>>>plastic hammer. A couple of rounds of this and it should start to come
>>>loose.
>>>Once I get these apart I make new studs from stainless steel rod. That
>>>
>>>
>way
>
>
>>>the
>>>first time is the last time. The other option is to clean the studs,
>>>
>>>
>paint
>
>
>>>them and then use a syringe to fill the space between the stud and
>>>housing with
>>>grease. There is simply no way to keep the water out of there. All you
>>>
>>>
>can
>
>
>>>do is slow it down.
>>>
>>>keith
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
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