Make no mistake, as a boat owner, I can tell tell you, after following all
the numerous responses concerning using "stainless bolts" into aluminum, it
is NOT the PERFECT solution. There can still be severe enough corrosion to
cause problems, although not as bad as regular steel. If there are any
roadster owners who are long term boat owners as well, now is the time to
chime in! Marine supply catalogs (West Marine, etc.) offer much useful
information regarding the galvanic, corrosion activity of dissimilar metals
in contact. They sell products that specifically mitigate this issue. I will
say in general, stainless to aluminum contact in a "non-salt water"
environment is not near as severe as regular steel. In a salt water
environment, it can be as bad or worse than our experience with the thermo
housing. I have replaced all my exterior "dress" engine bolts with stainless
because they will hold their appearance "better" and are cheaper than having
them chromed. However, on my thermo tower, I chose to use regular steel
bolts heavily coated with anti-seize compound going in to the aluminum head.
I can tell you from experience, stainless can seize up really fast and tight
with itself OR aluminum! At least when there is "seizing", mild steel is
much more forgiving and less damaging to aluminum than stainless.
IMHO,
Mike Hudson '67-1600
----- Original Message -----
From: "Daryl Smith" <drlsmith@telus.net>
To: <Keith0alan@aol.com>; <sandhoff@csus.edu>;
<datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 7:28 PM
Subject: Re: Water tower removal soak option
> I have used the method Kieth outlined with two exceptions: I didn't use a
> drill, and I used a big rubber mallet. I have removed three this way with
no
> damage, but it took a few days for each.
> First I would heat it with the toech till the moisture quit bubbling from
> around the studs, whack it in every direction with the mallet, soak it in
> penetrating oil, and leave it overnight.
> After a few cycles of this, sometimes 2 or 3 in a day they have all come
> loose and were able to be pried off carefully with no damage.
> The first one I replaced the studs with stainless steel bolts and used
> liberal amounts of antisieze. 5 yrs later it came off without a problem.
>
> Daryl
>
> From: <Keith0alan@aol.com>
>
>
> > Try this. Take a 1/16 " drill and carefully drill between the stud and
the
> > housing. After drilling out all the rust you can, fill the space with
> > penetrating oil. Heat with a propane torch till the penetrating oil just
> > starts to
> > bubble then add more penetrating oil. Then tap the sides of the tower
with
> > a
> > plastic hammer. A couple of rounds of this and it should start to come
> > loose.
> > Once I get these apart I make new studs from stainless steel rod. That
way
> > the
> > first time is the last time. The other option is to clean the studs,
paint
> > them and then use a syringe to fill the space between the stud and
> > housing with
> > grease. There is simply no way to keep the water out of there. All you
can
> > do is slow it down.
> >
> > keith
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