I have used the method Kieth outlined with two exceptions: I didn't use a
drill, and I used a big rubber mallet. I have removed three this way with no
damage, but it took a few days for each.
First I would heat it with the toech till the moisture quit bubbling from
around the studs, whack it in every direction with the mallet, soak it in
penetrating oil, and leave it overnight.
After a few cycles of this, sometimes 2 or 3 in a day they have all come
loose and were able to be pried off carefully with no damage.
The first one I replaced the studs with stainless steel bolts and used
liberal amounts of antisieze. 5 yrs later it came off without a problem.
Daryl
From: <Keith0alan@aol.com>
> Try this. Take a 1/16 " drill and carefully drill between the stud and the
> housing. After drilling out all the rust you can, fill the space with
> penetrating oil. Heat with a propane torch till the penetrating oil just
> starts to
> bubble then add more penetrating oil. Then tap the sides of the tower with
> a
> plastic hammer. A couple of rounds of this and it should start to come
> loose.
> Once I get these apart I make new studs from stainless steel rod. That way
> the
> first time is the last time. The other option is to clean the studs, paint
> them and then use a syringe to fill the space between the stud and
> housing with
> grease. There is simply no way to keep the water out of there. All you can
> do is slow it down.
>
> keith
>
>
> In a message dated 6/27/2006 11:43:04 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> sandhoff@csus.edu writes:
>
> When trying to get the water tower loose, and failing, I'd try making
>> some sort of seal that you dropped in over the thermostat and filing the
>> area with a water/vinegar mix.
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