An important thing I forgot to add ( small error,ha!) I did always have the
Churchill tool for aligning the aluminum seal parts.
Kas Kastner
----- Original Message -----
From: <WEmery7451@aol.com>
To: <kaskas@earthlink.net>; <JElbe@superflow.com>; <vinttr4@geneseo.net>;
<fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2001 10:41 AM
Subject: Re: Rear seal survey
> In a message dated 10/4/01 7:38:26 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> kaskas@earthlink.net writes:
>
> << Insert the pieces into the groove, usually a couple to start with a
> little more sealing goo, then insert the tool and drive the seal material
> down hard with a hammer. Keep doing this one or two pieces at a time
until
> there is just a little sticking out the groove, trim that with a razor
blade
> and it WILL seal.
>
> You'll use almost twice as much material as the length of the groove.
> Remember to hammer and hammer and hammer.
> >>
> Hi Kas,
>
> I do not know if I managed to catch everyone's responses, which I have
been
> putting into a file. When my wife gets on the computer, things seem to
> disappear,
>
> I have done plenty of hammering of Permatex soaked felt to seal the rear
main
> bearing cap. Most of the time, I am laying under the car getting my
clothes,
> face, and hair covered with Permatex. After every four races, I have been
> changing out the main bearings, rod bearings, and sometimes thrust washers
> from under the car. The more professional people pull their engines, and
do
> all this work in an engine stand. I have two stands which seem to get
used
> only between calamities.
>
> As far as I can tell, I never had leakage problems through the felt seals.
> All the oil appears to escape from the aluminum grooved oil sling, which
> works in conjunction with the crank grooves. I have gone through the
> following stages with this part:
>
> 1) Installed both used and new slings using the tapping method explained
in
> the shop manuals.
>
> 2) Had a mandrel made to center these seals, and have been using it.
>
> 3) Hardy Prentice informs me that the mandrel dimensions are wrong in the
> shop manuals, though mine seems to work (not stop the leaks).
>
> 4) The most recent theory is when I am cleaning an old moldy block and it
> appears that the aluminum sling has never been removed, I leave it in
place.
> The British might be the only ones who can properly install these seals.
I
> am now keeping the oil level lower and using an accusump, which seems to
help
> some.
>
> Question: Did you or the Group 44 cars use this aluminum sling, or were
the
> grooves removed from the crankshaft and a lip seal installed?
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