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Leaving the ignition on for a long time kills most electronic ignition
systems.
Another often overlooked problem is:
Check the impedance of the coil plus ballast resistor if fitted. The
total impedance should be more than 3 Ohm for most electronic ignition
systems unless specified otherwise. If a ballast resistor (ca. 1,5 Ohm)
is fitted and if the electronic ignition is connected over the coil
(ca. 1,5 Ohm) only, the impedance is only ca. 1,5 Ohm leading to the
electronic ignition and coil overheating/burning out. It should be
connected over coil and ballast resistor in series. It is also advisable
to disconnect the wire from the starter(relay) to the coil/ballast
resistor terminal as this one will take out the ballast resistor during
starting up to counteract the Voltage drop. This is usually not needed
with electronic ignition.
If originally no ballast resistor is fitted the impedance of the coil
should be about 3 Ohms so you can safely fit the electr. ign. straight
to the coil.
It is always wise to check the impedance first, whatever is fitted. PO's
may have been messing around.
As Derek suggested, if you have an electronic ignition from Petronix or
similar, get a dirt cheap Powerspark unit as a spare. Easier to replace
"en route" than installing points or a spare distributor.
Kees Oudesluijs
Derek Job schreef op 4-6-2015 om 11:22:
I was a great supporter of points, not because I thought they were
better but just because of originality and part of the 'fun' was
adjusting them. Since I switched to Powerspark (same as Pertronix) the
car runs much better throughout the rev range. I can buy the Powerspark
for £28.00 so I keep a spare one in the boot instead of having to switch
back to points if the first one fails.
My first Powerspark did actually fail after about 6 months but i think I
may have caused that problem when working on the lighting circuit over
winter and leaving the ignition on for longer than was probably advisable.
Derek
>
> On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 8:12 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
> "Talked to Jeff with Advanced Distributors.... Strongly suggested
> I install points instead of the Petronics"
> Bull shit!
> Concerning distributor caps and plug wires I very much agree to
> have copper core wires and and an OE, preferably NOS Lucas distr. cap.
> Some time ago I bought a bunch for the 23/25D4 distr. from a stand
> that is clearing stock from old garages on a classic car show,
> some original Lucas, some aftermarket but all NOS with copper
> instead of aluminium "contacts". Stuff from the 50's to 70's.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Leaving the ignition on for a long time
kills most electronic ignition systems. <br>
<br>
Another often overlooked problem is:<br>
Check the impedance of the coil plus ballast resistor if fitted.
The total impedance should be more than 3 Ohm for most electronic
ignition systems unless specified otherwise. If a ballast
resistor (ca. 1,5 Ohm) is fitted and if the electronic ignition
is connected over the coil (ca. 1,5 Ohm) only, the impedance is
only ca. 1,5 Ohm leading to the electronic ignition and coil
overheating/burning out. It should be connected over coil and
ballast resistor in series. It is also advisable to disconnect the
wire from the starter(relay) to the coil/ballast resistor terminal
as this one will take out the ballast resistor during starting up
to counteract the Voltage drop. This is usually not needed with
electronic ignition.<br>
If originally no ballast resistor is fitted the impedance of the
coil should be about 3 Ohms so you can safely fit the electr. ign.
straight to the coil.<br>
It is always wise to check the impedance first, whatever is
fitted. PO's may have been messing around.<br>
<br>
As Derek suggested, if you have an electronic ignition from
Petronix or similar, get a dirt cheap Powerspark unit as a spare.
Easier to replace "en route" than installing points or a spare
distributor.<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Derek Job schreef op 4-6-2015 om 11:22:<br>
</div>
<br>
I was a great supporter of points, not because I thought they were
better but just because of originality and part of the 'fun' was
adjusting them. Since I switched to Powerspark (same as Pertronix)
the car runs much better throughout the rev range. I can buy the
Powerspark for £28.00 so I keep a spare one in the boot instead of
having to switch back to points if the first one fails.<br>
<br>
My first Powerspark did actually fail after about 6 months but i
think I may have caused that problem when working on the lighting
circuit over winter and  leaving the ignition on for longer than was
probably advisable.<br>
<br>
Derek
<blockquote
cite="mid:CAAh8etkXxpjvhn_bOExzkCLqhWbVuf3Hase4zx6eOc2khfyZjA@mail.gmail.com"
type="cite">
<div class="gmail_extra"><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 8:12 AM,
Oudesluys <span dir="ltr"><<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:coudesluijs@chello.nl";
target="_blank">coudesluijs@chello.nl</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote">"Talked to Jeff with Advanced
Distributors.... Strongly suggested I install points instead
of the Petronics"<br>
Bull shit!<br>
Concerning distributor caps and plug wires I very much agree
to have copper core wires and and an OE, preferably NOS
Lucas distr. cap.<br>
Some time ago I bought a bunch for the 23/25D4 distr. from a
stand that is clearing stock from old garages on a classic
car show, some original Lucas, some aftermarket but all NOS
with copper instead of aluminium "contacts". Stuff from the
50's to 70's.<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<br>
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