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RE: Cylinder Head Install ..... Arggg

To: "MG Mailing List" <mgs@Autox.Team.Net>,
Subject: RE: Cylinder Head Install ..... Arggg
From: "Nick Coleman" <coleman@sd.aonix.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 1998 19:06:28 -0700
Live and learn.  The Chilton's MGB manual (1975 edition which another friend
gave me) listed the torque spec for Rod Bolts as "35-40 lbs" and if the
"studs were stamped 22 or with a small drill point -- 50 lbs."  Couldn't
find torque values in either the Haynes or Bentley.

I'd actually asked the list twice for the torque specs because I thought it
was a bit much as well.  Unfortunately, didn't get a response in time and
decided to go w/ the written word.  Guess I should have been more patient.
8{

Nick
73B

> Do I understand you correctly - you were putting 40 ft. lbs. of
> torque on a
> rocker stud? No wonder the poor little thing broke!
>
> Whatever you decide to fit by way of replacements, there's no need for
> anywhere that amount of torque on a rocker stud! I've been
> building British
> engines for years and the only things on a head that I torque are the head
> nuts themselves. The rocker studs and manifold studs (which have lock
> washers, by the way; a clue - if you see a lock washer, there's
> probably not
> going to be a torque spec.) should just be tightened as you would
> any other
> 5/16th nut.
>
> Lawrie
> British Sportscar Center
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Nick Coleman <coleman@sd.aonix.com>
> To: JustBrits@aol.com <JustBrits@aol.com>; Larry Hoy
> <larryhoy@mcione.com>;
> Harlan Jillson <hjillson@argolink.net>; mgs@autox.team.net
> <mgs@autox.team.net>
> Date: Sunday, September 27, 1998 4:25 PM
> Subject: RE: Cylinder Head Install ..... Arggg
>
>
> >Ed/Larry/Harlan,
> >
> >Thanks for the advise.  I actually picked up an easy out this morning.
> >Started to drill the tap hole into the stud.  But, the metal was a very
> hard
> >and the bit wasn't going in.  So, I've decided I'd better take it to a
> >machine shop tomorrow just as you suggest. (Ed, it is the #1
> rocker stud.)
> >
> >A friend is also lending me a stud puller.  I was going to back out the
> >head/rocker studs and install them as Harlan suggested.
> >
> >The friend (ex-professional racer) previously suggested that I buy a new
> >complete set of hardened head/rocker studs and replace the old ones.  He
> >said the factory studs were a bit on the weak side.  But, I'm
> not building
> a
> >race engine, so wasn't inclined to do that until the rocker stud broken
> >(40lb torque).  Is that something that I should do?  Or, is the
> broken stud
> >a bit of a flux?
> >
> >Thanks again for the advice,
> >
> >Nick
> >73B
> >
> >
> >
>
>


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