Mark,
When I bought my MG, I was as hesitant as you seem to be at this juncture.
I understand what you're going through and it's so easy for us to make
suggestions without knowing your mechanical abilities and tolerance for
tinkering.
If the car is as you describe.......rust free....then "go for it". There are
so few rust free cars out there; they're worth every penny when you find
them. Remember.....the mechanicals can ALWAYS be replaced, but the bodies
that are still straight and rust free after 25 years are rare indeed.
Don't listen to every "mechanic" that tries to give you good advice. More
often than not, they know less about your LBC than you do.......be VERY
suspicious of the compression readings unless you've witnessed them yourself.
By the way......new clutch???? How does he know? And the price.......$3000 is
outrageous. If you do it yourself, it's $100 for the clutch and a couple of
hundred for rings and bearings.
In any event......the readings may be a little low, but they don't constitute
an immediate rebuild. Drive it over the summer (stay close to home)......get
the feel of the car for a few months.....then make a decision.
Collect a few manuals, start reading and while you live with the car you'll
have a better feeling of what you really need.
Our LBC's are meant to be worked on by their owners. They love the attention
and they respond well.....it's true.
When I got my rust free "California" car (I live in R.I.), it was blowing oil
horribly. I had never done an engine job. I jacked up the car, pulled the
crossmember and dropped the pan. I removed the rod caps and pulled out the
pistons from below. I had the engine rebored "in situ" and put it all back
together. It's been running fine ever since....and that was 20 years ago and
100,000 miles ago.(I am meticulous about oil changes and preventative
maintenance).
Go ahead and buy it.....you won't regret it.
Keep me informed.
Bob Stahlbush
66 MGB GHN 3L 78708
60 TR3A TS 81398 L
PS I'd replace the Weber with SU's
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