Hi Tab,
I think that Plymouth, Mass. will qualify for New England. I'm old enough
to have done the winter/summer thermostat bit. The idea behind it was to get
more heat in the winter. That, along with the radiator blind, helped a bit.
With a modern cooling system and modern coolant, there's no need to play the old
games.
Bud Krueger
52TD
77MGB (190 thermostat year 'round)
Tab Julius wrote:
> Although I don't disagree with the blockage diagnosis, my question relates
> to thermostats themselves. I know that from other cars that I've owned
> that we've occasionally installed a "summer thermostat" and a "winter
> thermostat". Since I live in New England where it can get to -30 (that's
> 30 below 0) degrees in the winter, or over 100 in the summer - there's a
> temperature range for you! - it's desirable to vary the thermostat by the
> season. Does such a thing exist for MGs (probably) and do people switch
> out (perhaps not so probable)?
>
> - Tab
>
> At 08:33 PM 9/6/99 EDT, Bob Howard wrote:
> >Bob,
> > That the temp gets above the thermostat setting is not unusual, but for
> >the temp to reach 100C often is not right.
> > The purpose of the stat is to establish the minimum operating temp of
> >the engine. It does that by circulating engine water that is over the
> >stat's rating out to the radiator for cooling. The stat can cycle open
> >and closed in its efforts to maintain the operating temp. The actual
> >operating temp is established when the heat into the water (waste heat
> >from the engine) is in equilibrium with the head transferred to the air,
> >and that is usually much hotter than stat rating.
> > Assuming that the gauge is telling the correct temp, 80C is about
> >right for the engine. 90 is OK, but I wouldn't want to be above that very
> >often. If you're running hot, first thing to do is to check the timing.
> >Set it to 0 (the book setting) or 4 BTDC (my preferred setting) but do
> >this the static timing method. If you don't know what I mean, ask and
> >I'll describe.
> > I read that it is possible to install the fan blades so that they push
> >air forward. Check that they are on properly.
> > Is there water moving visibly in the radiator tank when the engine is
> >hot? You should see some swirling that indicates the pump is pumping.
> > But, I'm sorry to say, the problem is very likely to be a clogged
> >radiator or clogged block. The front right corner of the block, behind
> >that little drain tap, will fill up with an incredible amount of sediment
> >and block the proper flow of cooling water. The square casting on the
> >side of the block, half-hidden under the carbs and exhaust manifold, has
> >one, two or three holes in it that go to the water passages inside the
> >block. If plugged, the engine runs hot. Solution to that is easy-pull
> >out the "freeze" plugs, ream the holes, install new plugs. Reinstall
> >carbs and exhaust pipes.
> > What I would recommend is to check the timing and the fan blades, then
> >run a radiator cleaner in the system and flush it well. Won't hurt and
> >may help.
> >Bob
> >TD MkII
> >
> >On Mon, 6 Sep 1999 15:30:49 EDT BobMGT@aol.com writes:
> >>On a hot day my TD's temperature gauge gets up to 212. All I know is
> >>that
> >>this is above the thermostat rating of 190. Is something wrong if the
> >>temperature gets above the thermostat rating? What temperature should
> >>be
> >>considered too hot? I found nothing in the workshop or owners manuals
> >>regarding temperature, maybe because the early models had no gauge.
> >>
> >>BTW, I tried some Redline Water Wetter and it made absolutely no
> >>difference.
> >>
> >>Bob Donahue (Still stuck in the '50s)
> >>EMAIL - BOBMGT@AOL.COM
> >>52 MGTD - under DIY restoration NEMGTR #11470
> >>71 MGB - AMGBA #96-12029, NAMGBR #7-3336
> >
> >
> >
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