The MG always had options for hotter and cooler stats, but these were for
'hotter and cooler climates' (i.e. probably relative to the UK) rather than
winter and summer.
PaulH.
http://freespace.virgin.net/paul.hunt1/
(or if that URL doesn't work try )
(http://194.168.54.52/paul.hunt1)
-----Original Message-----
From: Tab Julius <tab@penworks.com>
To: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>
Cc: BobMGT@aol.com <BobMGT@aol.com>; mgs@autox.team.net
<mgs@autox.team.net>; mg-t@autox.team.net <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Date: 07 September 1999 02:18
Subject: Re: How hot is too hot?
>
>Although I don't disagree with the blockage diagnosis, my question relates
>to thermostats themselves. I know that from other cars that I've owned
>that we've occasionally installed a "summer thermostat" and a "winter
>thermostat". Since I live in New England where it can get to -30 (that's
>30 below 0) degrees in the winter, or over 100 in the summer - there's a
>temperature range for you! - it's desirable to vary the thermostat by the
>season. Does such a thing exist for MGs (probably) and do people switch
>out (perhaps not so probable)?
>
>- Tab
>
>
>At 08:33 PM 9/6/99 EDT, Bob Howard wrote:
>>Bob,
>> That the temp gets above the thermostat setting is not unusual, but for
>>the temp to reach 100C often is not right.
>> The purpose of the stat is to establish the minimum operating temp of
>>the engine. It does that by circulating engine water that is over the
>>stat's rating out to the radiator for cooling. The stat can cycle open
>>and closed in its efforts to maintain the operating temp. The actual
>>operating temp is established when the heat into the water (waste heat
>>from the engine) is in equilibrium with the head transferred to the air,
>>and that is usually much hotter than stat rating.
>> Assuming that the gauge is telling the correct temp, 80C is about
>>right for the engine. 90 is OK, but I wouldn't want to be above that very
>>often. If you're running hot, first thing to do is to check the timing.
>>Set it to 0 (the book setting) or 4 BTDC (my preferred setting) but do
>>this the static timing method. If you don't know what I mean, ask and
>>I'll describe.
>> I read that it is possible to install the fan blades so that they push
>>air forward. Check that they are on properly.
>> Is there water moving visibly in the radiator tank when the engine is
>>hot? You should see some swirling that indicates the pump is pumping.
>> But, I'm sorry to say, the problem is very likely to be a clogged
>>radiator or clogged block. The front right corner of the block, behind
>>that little drain tap, will fill up with an incredible amount of sediment
>>and block the proper flow of cooling water. The square casting on the
>>side of the block, half-hidden under the carbs and exhaust manifold, has
>>one, two or three holes in it that go to the water passages inside the
>>block. If plugged, the engine runs hot. Solution to that is easy-pull
>>out the "freeze" plugs, ream the holes, install new plugs. Reinstall
>>carbs and exhaust pipes.
>> What I would recommend is to check the timing and the fan blades, then
>>run a radiator cleaner in the system and flush it well. Won't hurt and
>>may help.
>>Bob
>>TD MkII
>>
>>On Mon, 6 Sep 1999 15:30:49 EDT BobMGT@aol.com writes:
>>>On a hot day my TD's temperature gauge gets up to 212. All I know is
>>>that
>>>this is above the thermostat rating of 190. Is something wrong if the
>>>temperature gets above the thermostat rating? What temperature should
>>>be
>>>considered too hot? I found nothing in the workshop or owners manuals
>>>regarding temperature, maybe because the early models had no gauge.
>>>
>>>BTW, I tried some Redline Water Wetter and it made absolutely no
>>>difference.
>>>
>>>Bob Donahue (Still stuck in the '50s)
>>>EMAIL - BOBMGT@AOL.COM
>>>52 MGTD - under DIY restoration NEMGTR #11470
>>>71 MGB - AMGBA #96-12029, NAMGBR #7-3336
>>
>>
>>
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