I have pullled and installed Tiger engines from the top in a standard
garage many times. When the engine's oil pan is high enough to clear the
body , I simply lift the the tail of the transmission up and swing it
around while rolling hoist forward slightly. The only trick may be in how
one lifts the engine. I use a plate which mounts directly to the intake
manifold's four-carb.-studs. The plate has two large eyelets for different
lifting applications and I use the front one for the Tiger's engine and
trans. I personally like the option of moving the car's body around easily
on its four paws. I could go into further detail but I think mostly it is
a "to each her/his own" kind of thing.
----------
> From: FrizBMG@aol.com
> To: w_pierzga@email.msn.com; tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Advice on Pulling Engine
> Date: Monday, February 23, 1998 12:01 AM
>
>
> Hi Wayne
> Like you I am in the procees of restoring a Tiger ,but mine is a Mk
1a.I too
> pulled my engine as part of the process,and here are my two cents on the
> process and problems with it.
> I follwed the directions in the Tiger service manual.I took it out thru
the
> top.I also used 3 cans of WD-40(or equivilant) on every part of the car
that
> had a bolt I was going to touch during the dis-assembly,over the course
of 2
> weeks or so.I unhooked everything that could come loose,and the water
pump and
> crank pulley as well.I got the front end WAY up in the air,then I
realized
> the problem:garage roof clearance.The whole engine and trans comes out
> STRAIGHT UP-JUST LIKE A ROCKET!You need a 9 foot(or so) garage clearance
to
> pull the engine and trans as a complete assembly(No kidding!)
> Just picture this: the enine and trans LENGTH PLUS the RAISED HEIGHT of
the
> car PLUS room to clear the whole mess.
> I didnt have the clearance to remove the engine and trans as a unit,so I
> removed the trans from the enginefrom below and took the engine out thru
the
> top.A problem I had with this was that the trans splines were rusty,I had
to
> pin the trans against the body with a floorjack to get enough stability
to pry
> it away from the engine(as everything was unattached at that stage).
> When I put the whole mess back together I will raise the car higher and
> install the engine,trans and headers in from below.The front suspension
comes
> out as a unit.It is secured by 4 bolts,2 brakelines and the splined
section of
> the steering box that mates with the(use LOTS of WD40 ! )steering wheel
shaft
> (okay another bolt for a total of 5).A good tip I got from online was to
duct
> tape the socket for the (4) crossmember bolts to its extension so you
dont
> lose it in the crossmember.
> Something that I remember reading in the TEAE Sunbeam Survivor manual is
that
> you(since you have a Mk11) will have a clearance problem when you
install the
> eng/trans combo due to a lack of clearance in the trans tunnel because it
will
> come into contact with the reverse light switch thingy(not a problem for
us Mk
> 1 owners,no reverse lights!) that is mounted on the trans side.I dont
know how
> much of a problem that the reverse switch is to PULL the engine this way
,but
> be aware.
> Good luck!
> Tony
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