At 14:07 6/01/99 EST, you wrote:
>In a message dated 1/6/99 10:04:16 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>bgullatt@mesahq.com writes:
>
><< I
> use Redi Strip in Evansville, Indiana (Dan Payne). They use an alkali
> solution rather than an acid. It won't come back and haunt you like acid
> dipping does. No seeping seams!. >>
>
>Bill-
>I am going through the same decision process, trying to decide how to get to
>bare metal.
>I have been told that when you dip the uni-body, you lose all of the sealants
>used in the manufacturing process, like in the body seams. Are you telling me
>that alkali based dips don't cause this same headache?
>Thanks-Mike
>
>
Mike, Bill & others
I would be very reluctant to have my (car) body dipped in any chemical
striping system unless you can also get it fully and properly phosphated as
well, even then I think you would get the corrosive material coming out in
years to come, especially after a drive in wet weather. There's lots of
places for the chemicals to hide, especially in the chassis rails. Unless
you can high pressure clean through the inside of these then I would'nt do it.
The option I took was to have the whole thing abrasively blasted. But
beware! you need someone who really knows what they or doing or you'll end
up with more warped panels than straight one's.
The exterior panels, and the insides of the exterior panels should ONLY be
plastic bead or walnut blasted. Anything else will cause distortion. In my
case they got down to the original red lead undercoat, this proved too tough
to remove and will need to be sanded by hand of machine.
The underneath, inside, engine bay, inside trunk/boot can be blasted with
Garnet, which is a very very fine sand and will remove all the paint, black
tar proofcoat underneath etc. All the original joint filler should be
removed as much as possible beforehand manually with a screwdriver, chisel
etc. It chips away quite easily. This way you know precisely what you have
underneath! (and it will also reveal in my opinion how poor the original
welding is!)
I got the blasters to coat/spray the whole thing with a special clear
corrosion resistant film that can be painted over. This way you can see
everything!, and not have to worry about an oxide/surface rust forming
before you get to finish all that needs to be done.
Cost - about equivalent to USD 400, Any way you do it, the whole thing has
to be completely striped of all parts to the last nut and bolt to get the
best result.
Cheers
Wally in Summer Downunder
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