--===============5647412397546112997==
--000000000000b2d7950597e2cdd4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
After a lot of feedback from you guys and the information that Don got from
Nisonger I was able to get everything wired up correctly today.
1. White wire that originally went to the tach is now hooked to terminal #2
on the ignition switch and goes to the ballast resistor.
2. I ran a new wire from the points side of the coil to the signal input on
the tach.
3. I also discovered that I had the Pertronix wired up wrong. The red wire
has to go to 12V and I had it on the battery side of the coil (which is
only 7 or 8 volts when the engine is running).
So I got that all straightened out, poured some gas into the carb and
cranked it up. Now I need to fix the squealing belt. I think it is
slipping on the alternator pulley because that pulley and the belt got
really hot. I'll let it cool down and mess with it later.
I only have about a thousand more things to do before I can drive this
thing out of the garage.
Thanks for all of the help.
Joe
On Thu, Nov 21, 2019, 9:45 AM Gary via Tigers <tigers@autox.team.net> wrote=
:
> Uh, I think some of that is wrong info.. very confusing to me anyway.
>
> Leave the loop in the stock white wire(or straighten it out) but do NOT
> hook it back to the new tach.
> That wire goes directly from the ignition switch to the top of the ballas=
t
> resistor, needs NO connection
> to your new tach.
>
> Your new white wire with spade needs an extension wire going to the low
> (negative) side of the
> coil where the wire goes to the points (Pertronix).
>
> The +12 green wire needs to plug to the original spade on the back of the
> tach.
> HTH,
> Gary W.
>
>
> On 11/21/2019 7:09 AM, Donald Antilla wrote:
>
> Gary and Friends:
>
> I just had a good discussion with Peter Bayer who owns Nisonger
> Corporation and who modifies the tachs.
>
> Peter explained the entire circuitry to me and I will only summarize in
> words, then please view the attached file from Nisonger.
>
> The summary is:
>
> - Keep the loop on the back of the tach intact. Do NOT remove nor
> disconnect. This SHOULD therefore provide 12 volt power to the ballast
> resistor
> - Route a wire from the female spade terminal at back of the updated
> tach TO the negative side of the ignition coil which has been equipped=
with
> the Pertronix system.
>
>
>
> I=E2=80=99ve attached the instructions from Nisonger for you to follow.
>
>
>
> Peter Bayer is a smart and helpful person and is quite willing to receive
> a call from Gary and walk Gary through the instructions.
>
> I think once Gary talks with Peter while reading the attached instruction=
s
> that all will be good.
>
> Peter Bayer=E2=80=99s number is (914) 381-3600
>
> Please let me know how it goes.
>
>
>
>
>
> *Don Antilla *
>
> *Southbury, CT*
>
> *203-264-8301 Home*
>
> *203-592-8427 Cell*
>
>
>
>
>
> *From: *Tigers <tigers-bounces@autox.team.net>
> <tigers-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Theo Smit via Tigers
> <tigers@autox.team.net> <tigers@autox.team.net>
> *Reply-To: *Theo Smit <tsmit@shaw.ca> <tsmit@shaw.ca>
> *Date: *Wednesday, November 20, 2019 at 11:49 PM
> *To: *Gary <garywinblad@comcast.net> <garywinblad@comcast.net>
> *Cc: *tigers <Tigers@autox.team.net> <Tigers@autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid
>
>
>
> remember that TigersUnited.com is not dead, and among other resources it
> has a complete scan of the Tiger Workshop Manual, including good
> re-digitized drawings of the wiring diagram.
>
> http://www.tigersunited.com/resources/wsm/tt-images/MKIBIGwiring.jpg
>
>
>
> So, with respect to that drawing:
>
> - Your tach should be powered through the spade connector on the back of
> the tach. That should be connected to a green wire that is energized only
> when the ignition is on or in the start position.
>
> - Your tach should be grounded through the black daisy-chain wires that
> need to be connected to the dash frame somewhere (not just gauge to gauge
> to gauge).
>
> - The OEM wiring has the coil power run through a white wire, looped
> through the transformer U-shaped metal piece and plastic frame that is
> mounted on the back of the tach. It kind of sounds like the Nissonger
> rebuild gave you an alternate means of sensing the ignition with their
> white "signal in" line. You should have got a wiring diagram with the tac=
h,
> if they changed the way it can be wired up.
>
> - That OEM white wire needs to connect to one end of the ballast resistor
> as shown in the wiring diagram (and the other end plugs into the ignition
> switch, not the tach). It supplies power to the coil through the ballast
> resistor when the car is running.
>
> - The white/blue wire runs from the solenoid to the ballast resistor to
> the coil positive.
>
>
>
> It sounds like you need to make sure that the white wire you plugged into
> the tach, is connected to the ballast resistor at the other end. If so,
> unplug the tach end, loop it through the transformer block, and plug it
> into the #2 terminal on the ignition switch.
>
>
>
> If the tach works properly, then you're good. If it does not, then try
> looping the white wire through the transformer block in the opposite
> direction. If that still fails (but the engine runs properly), then aband=
on
> the transformer and use Nissonger's signal wire. As Gary says, that wire
> should be connected using a new extension wire to the coil negative
> terminal ( where the points connect ).
>
>
>
>
>
> Good luck,
>
> Theo
> ------------------------------
>
> *From: *"tigers" <tigers@autox.team.net> <tigers@autox.team.net>
> *To: *"Joe Brown" <jbbrown1980@gmail.com> <jbbrown1980@gmail.com>
> *Cc: *"tigers" <Tigers@autox.team.net> <Tigers@autox.team.net>
> *Sent: *Wednesday, November 20, 2019 7:22:28 PM
> *Subject: *Re: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid
>
>
>
> The Signal wire should probably wire to
>
> the points or low side of the coil.
>
> The white wire should not end at the tach
>
> but would do a one loop through the coil
>
> pickup on the back of the stock tach and
>
> then run to the ballast.
>
> You do need 12v to the back of the tach
>
> spade terminal and a ground.
>
> Gary
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
> On Nov 20, 2019, at 2:30 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers <tigers@autox.team.net>
> <tigers@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Thanks to Donald Antilla and Ron Fraser for their quick replies. They
> have me on the right track now. In my new wiring harness I have one whit=
e
> wire that comes out of the harness behind the tach and I assumed it plugg=
ed
> into the white wire (labeled "signal in") on the back of the tach. My ta=
ch
> was rebuilt by Nisonger and has the updated electronics. I ohmed that wi=
re
> out and it is the one that goes to the ballast resistor. So should I run=
a
> new wire from the ignition switch to the tach and piggyback the ballast
> wire to that?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Joe Brown
>
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 20, 2019 at 3:31 PM Donald Antilla <fast427@sbcglobal.net>
> wrote:
>
> The starter solenoid temporarily supplies 12 volts to the. Oil while the
> starter is cranking.
> As soon as you release the key that temporary 12 volts is disconnected an=
d
> the power to the coil is via the ballast resistor.
> It sounds like you either have a bad ballast resistor or broken wiring to
> the ballast resistor.
> Temporarily add an alligator jumper across the two tabs on the resistor
> and see if it starts. If it does start you have a bad resistor.
> And if that does not work, start looking for lack of 12 volts INTO. The
> ballast resistor.
>
> From Don's iPhone 203-592-8427
> Or 203-264-8301 home
>
> > On Nov 20, 2019, at 4:20 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers <tigers@autox.team.ne=
t>
> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hey,
> >
> > I'm trying to fire up my engine for the first time and I have a
> question. When I turn the key to the start position the engine turns ove=
r
> and fires up. But as soon as I let go of the key so that it returns to t=
he
> run position it dies. It seems like the ignition system is only getting
> power when the key is in the start position.
> >
> > I'm a little confused by the wiring diagram. The white/blue wire from
> the solenoid goes to the coil and this would seem to imply that there
> should always be 12V on this wire when the key is in the run position. I=
s
> this correct? I'm only getting the 12V on this line when the key is in t=
he
> start position.
> >
> > Any ideas?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Joe Brown
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > tigers@autox.team.net
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fast427@sbcglobal.net
> >
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad@comcast.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tsmit@shaw.ca
>
> _______________________________________________ tigers@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive:
> http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fast427@sbcglobal.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe:
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>
>
>
--000000000000b2d7950597e2cdd4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr">After a lot of feedback from you guys and the information =
that Don got from Nisonger I was able to get everything wired up correctly =
today.<div>1. White wire that originally went to the tach is now hooked to =
terminal #2 on the ignition switch and goes to the ballast resistor.</div><=
div>2. I ran a new wire from the points side of the coil to the signal inpu=
t on the tach.</div><div>3. I also discovered that I had the Pertronix wire=
d up wrong.=C2=A0 The red wire has to go to 12V and I had it on the battery=
side of the coil (which is only 7 or 8 volts when the engine is running).<=
/div><div><br></div><div>So I got that all straightened out, poured some ga=
s into the carb and cranked it up.=C2=A0 Now I need to fix the squealing be=
lt.=C2=A0 I think it is slipping on the alternator pulley because that pull=
ey and the belt got really hot.=C2=A0 I'll let it cool down and mess wi=
th it later.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>I only have about a thous=
and more things to do before I can drive this thing out of the garage.=C2=
=A0=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks for all of the help.</div><div><b=
r></div><div>Joe</div></div><div dir=3D"auto"></div><br><div class=3D"gmail=
_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Thu, Nov 21, 2019, 9:45 AM=
Gary via Tigers <<a href=3D"mailto:tigers@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_bl=
ank">tigers@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gma=
il_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,2=
04,204);padding-left:1ex">
=20
=20
=20
<div>
Uh, I think some of that is wrong info.. very confusing to me
anyway.<br>
<br>
Leave the loop in the stock white wire(or straighten it out) but do
NOT hook it back to the new tach.<br>
That wire goes directly from the ignition switch to the top of the
ballast resistor, needs NO connection<br>
to your new tach.<br>
<br>
Your new white wire with spade needs an extension wire going to the
low (negative) side of the<br>
coil where the wire goes to the points (Pertronix).<br>
<br>
The +12 green wire needs to plug to the original spade on the back
of the tach.<br>
HTH,<br>
Gary W.<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>On 11/21/2019 7:09 AM, Donald Antilla
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
=20
=20
=20
=20
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:16pt;font-family:Ar=
ial,sans-serif">Gary
and Friends:<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:16pt;font-family:Ar=
ial,sans-serif">
I just had a good discussion with Peter Bayer who owns
Nisonger Corporation and who modifies the tachs.<u></u><u></u><=
/span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:16pt;font-family:Ar=
ial,sans-serif">Peter
explained the entire circuitry to me and I will only
summarize in words, then please view the attached file from
Nisonger.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:16pt;font-family:Ar=
ial,sans-serif">The
summary is:<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<ul style=3D"margin-top:0in" type=3D"disc">
<li style=3D"margin-left:0in"><span style=3D"font-size:16pt;font-=
family:Arial,sans-serif">Keep
the loop on the back of the tach intact. Do NOT remove nor
disconnect. This SHOULD therefore provide 12 volt power to
the ballast resistor<u></u><u></u></span></li>
<li style=3D"margin-left:0in"><span style=3D"font-size:16pt;font-=
family:Arial,sans-serif">Route
a wire from the female spade terminal at back of the
updated tach TO the negative side of the ignition coil
which has been equipped with the Pertronix system.<u></u><u><=
/u></span></li>
</ul>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:16pt;font-family:Ar=
ial,sans-serif"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:16pt;font-family:Ar=
ial,sans-serif">I=E2=80=99ve
attached the instructions from Nisonger for you to follow.<u></=
u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:16pt;font-family:Ar=
ial,sans-serif"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:16pt;font-family:Ar=
ial,sans-serif">Peter
Bayer is a smart and helpful person and is quite willing to
receive a call from Gary and walk Gary through the
instructions.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:16pt;font-family:Ar=
ial,sans-serif">I
think once Gary talks with Peter while reading the attached
instructions that all will be good.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:16pt;font-family:Ar=
ial,sans-serif">Peter
Bayer=E2=80=99s number is (914) 381-3600<u></u><u></u></span></=
p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:16pt;font-family:Ar=
ial,sans-serif">Please
let me know how it goes. <u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p><span style=3D"font-size:16pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif"><u><=
/u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:16pt;font-family:Ar=
ial,sans-serif"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><i><span style=3D"font-size:14pt">Don
Antilla <u></u><u></u></span></i></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><i><span style=3D"font-size:14pt">Southbur=
y,
CT<u></u><u></u></span></i></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><i><span style=3D"font-size:14pt">203-264-=
8301
Home<u></u><u></u></span></i></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><i><span style=3D"font-size:14pt">203-592-=
8427
Cell<u></u><u></u></span></i></p>
</div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:16pt;font-family:Ar=
ial,sans-serif"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:16pt;font-family:Ar=
ial,sans-serif"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
<div style=3D"border-right:none;border-bottom:none;border-left:none=
;border-top:1pt solid rgb(181,196,223);padding:3pt 0in 0in">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span style=3D"font-size:12pt;color:bla=
ck">From: </span></b><span style=3D"font-size:12pt;color:black">Tigers
<a href=3D"mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net"; rel=3D"noref=
errer" target=3D"_blank"><tigers-bounces@autox.team.net></a> on behal=
f of Theo
Smit via Tigers <a href=3D"mailto:tigers@autox.team.net"; rel=
=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank"><tigers@autox.team.net></a><br>
<b>Reply-To: </b>Theo Smit <a href=3D"mailto:tsmit@shaw.ca"; r=
el=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank"><tsmit@shaw.ca></a><br>
<b>Date: </b>Wednesday, November 20, 2019 at 11:49 PM<br>
<b>To: </b>Gary <a href=3D"mailto:garywinblad@comcast.net"; re=
l=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank"><garywinblad@comcast.net></a><br>
<b>Cc: </b>tigers <a href=3D"mailto:Tigers@autox.team.net"; re=
l=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank"><Tigers@autox.team.net></a><br>
<b>Subject: </b>Re: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid<u></u><u></u></=
span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-famil=
y:Arial,sans-serif;color:black">remember
that TigersUnited.com is not dead, and among other
resources it has a complete scan of the Tiger Workshop
Manual, including good re-digitized drawings of the
wiring diagram.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-famil=
y:Arial,sans-serif;color:black"><a href=3D"http://www.tigersunited.com/reso=
urces/wsm/tt-images/MKIBIGwiring.jpg" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">=
http://www.tigersunited.com/resources/wsm/tt-images/MKIBIGwiring.jpg</a><u>=
</u><u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-famil=
y:Arial,sans-serif;color:black"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-famil=
y:Arial,sans-serif;color:black">So,
with respect to that drawing:<u></u><u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-famil=
y:Arial,sans-serif;color:black">-
Your tach should be powered through the spade connector
on the back of the tach. That should be connected to a
green wire that is energized only when the ignition is
on or in the start position.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-famil=
y:Arial,sans-serif;color:black">-
Your tach should be grounded through the black
daisy-chain wires that need to be connected to the dash
frame somewhere (not just gauge to gauge to gauge).<u></u><=
u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-famil=
y:Arial,sans-serif;color:black">-
The OEM wiring has the coil power run through a white
wire, looped through the transformer U-shaped metal
piece and plastic frame that is mounted on the back of
the tach. It kind of sounds like the Nissonger rebuild
gave you an alternate means of sensing the ignition with
their white "signal in" line. You should have got=
a
wiring diagram with the tach, if they changed the way it
can be wired up.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-famil=
y:Arial,sans-serif;color:black">-
That OEM white wire needs to connect to one end of the
ballast resistor as shown in the wiring diagram (and the
other end plugs into the ignition switch, not the tach).
It supplies power to the coil through the ballast
resistor when the car is running.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-famil=
y:Arial,sans-serif;color:black">-
The white/blue wire runs from the solenoid to the
ballast resistor to the coil positive.<u></u><u></u></span>=
</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-famil=
y:Arial,sans-serif;color:black"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-famil=
y:Arial,sans-serif;color:black">It
sounds like you need to make sure that the white wire
you plugged into the tach, is connected to the ballast
resistor at the other end. If so, unplug the tach end,
loop it through the transformer block, and plug it into
the #2 terminal on the ignition switch.<u></u><u></u></span=
></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-famil=
y:Arial,sans-serif;color:black"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-famil=
y:Arial,sans-serif;color:black">If
the tach works properly, then you're good. If it does
not, then try looping the white wire through the
transformer block in the opposite direction. If that
still fails (but the engine runs properly), then abandon
the transformer and use Nissonger's signal wire. As Gar=
y
says, that wire should be connected using a new
extension wire to the coil negative terminal ( where the
points connect ).<u></u><u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-famil=
y:Arial,sans-serif;color:black"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-famil=
y:Arial,sans-serif;color:black"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-famil=
y:Arial,sans-serif;color:black">Good
luck,<u></u><u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-famil=
y:Arial,sans-serif;color:black">Theo<u></u><u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"text-align:center" align=3D"cen=
ter"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif;color:black=
">
<hr width=3D"100%" size=3D"0" align=3D"center"></span></div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-fa=
mily:Arial,sans-serif;color:black">From:
</span></b><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-family:Arial,=
sans-serif;color:black">"tigers"
<a href=3D"mailto:tigers@autox.team.net"; rel=3D"noreferrer"=
target=3D"_blank"><tigers@autox.team.net></a><br>
<b>To: </b>"Joe Brown" <a href=3D"mailto:jbbrown1=
980@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank"><jbbrown1980@gmail.c=
om></a><br>
<b>Cc: </b>"tigers" <a href=3D"mailto:Tigers@auto=
x.team.net" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank"><Tigers@autox.team.net&=
gt;</a><br>
<b>Sent: </b>Wednesday, November 20, 2019 7:22:28 PM<br>
<b>Subject: </b>Re: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid<u></u><u></u>=
</span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-famil=
y:Arial,sans-serif;color:black"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-famil=
y:Arial,sans-serif;color:black">The
Signal wire should probably wire to<u></u><u></u></span></p=
>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-fam=
ily:Arial,sans-serif;color:black">the
points or low side of the coil.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-fam=
ily:Arial,sans-serif;color:black">The
white wire should not end at the tach<u></u><u></u></span=
></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-fam=
ily:Arial,sans-serif;color:black">but
would do a one loop through the coil<u></u><u></u></span>=
</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-fam=
ily:Arial,sans-serif;color:black">pickup
on the back of the stock tach and<u></u><u></u></span></p=
>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-fam=
ily:Arial,sans-serif;color:black">then
run to the ballast.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-fam=
ily:Arial,sans-serif;color:black">You
do need 12v to the back of the tach<u></u><u></u></span><=
/p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-fam=
ily:Arial,sans-serif;color:black">spade
terminal and a ground.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"margin-bottom:12pt"><span sty=
le=3D"font-size:10pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif;color:black">Gary<u></u><=
u></u></span></p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-f=
amily:Arial,sans-serif;color:black">Sent
from my iPhone<u></u><u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-f=
amily:Arial,sans-serif;color:black"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
<blockquote style=3D"margin-top:5pt;margin-bottom:5pt">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"margin-bottom:12pt"><span=
style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif;color:black">On
Nov 20, 2019, at 2:30 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers
<a href=3D"mailto:tigers@autox.team.net"; rel=3D"noref=
errer" target=3D"_blank"><tigers@autox.team.net></a> wrote:<u></u><u>=
</u></span></p>
</blockquote>
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin-top:5pt;margin-bottom:5pt">
<div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;fo=
nt-family:Arial,sans-serif;color:black">Thanks
to Donald Antilla and Ron Fraser for their quick
replies.=C2=A0 They have me on the right track now.=
=C2=A0
In my new wiring harness I have one white wire
that comes out of the harness behind the tach
and I assumed it plugged into the white wire
(labeled "signal in") on the back of the =
tach.=C2=A0
My tach was rebuilt by Nisonger and has the
updated electronics.=C2=A0 I ohmed that wire out an=
d
it is the one that goes to the ballast
resistor.=C2=A0 So should I run a new wire from the
ignition switch to the tach and piggyback the
ballast wire to that?=C2=A0=C2=A0<u></u><u></u></sp=
an></p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;=
font-family:Arial,sans-serif;color:black">Thanks,<u></u><u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;=
font-family:Arial,sans-serif;color:black">Joe
Brown<u></u><u></u></span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font=
-family:Arial,sans-serif;color:black"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
<div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;=
font-family:Arial,sans-serif;color:black">On
Wed, Nov 20, 2019 at 3:31 PM Donald Antilla
<<a href=3D"mailto:fast427@sbcglobal.net"; rel=
=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">fast427@sbcglobal.net</a>>
wrote:<u></u><u></u></span></p>
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"border-top:none;border-right:none;=
border-bottom:none;border-left:1pt solid rgb(204,204,204);padding:0in 0in 0=
in 6pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0in">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"margin-bottom:12pt"><=
span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif;color:black">The
starter solenoid temporarily supplies 12 volts
to the. Oil while the starter is cranking. <br>
As soon as you release the key that temporary
12 volts is disconnected and the power to the
coil is via the ballast resistor. <br>
It sounds like you either have a bad ballast
resistor or broken wiring to the ballast
resistor. <br>
Temporarily add an alligator jumper across the
two tabs on the resistor and see if it starts.
If it does start you have a bad resistor. <br>
And if that does not work, start looking for
lack of 12 volts INTO. The ballast resistor. <br>
<br>
From Don's iPhone 203-592-8427<br>
Or 203-264-8301 home<br>
<br>
> On Nov 20, 2019, at 4:20 PM, Joe Brown
via Tigers <<a href=3D"mailto:tigers@autox.tea=
m.net" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">tigers@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> Hey,<br>
> <br>
> I'm trying to fire up my engine for the
first time and I have a question.=C2=A0 When I tu=
rn
the key to the start position the engine turns
over and fires up.=C2=A0 But as soon as I let go =
of
the key so that it returns to the run position
it dies.=C2=A0 It seems like the ignition system =
is
only getting power when the key is in the
start position. <br>
> <br>
> I'm a little confused by the wiring
diagram.=C2=A0 The white/blue wire from the
solenoid goes to the coil and this would seem
to imply that there should always be 12V on
this wire when the key is in the run
position.=C2=A0 Is this correct?=C2=A0 I'm on=
ly getting
the 12V on this line when the key is in the
start position.=C2=A0 <br>
> <br>
> Any ideas?<br>
> <br>
> Thanks,<br>
> Joe Brown<br>
>
_______________________________________________<b=
r>
> <br>
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> <u></u><u></u></span></p>
</blockquote>
</div>
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