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Re: spit body removal

To: Martin Libhart <mlibhart@feist.com>
Subject: Re: spit body removal
From: SUCHAK <suchak@mediaone.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 11:39:46 -0400
Cc: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
References: <34169278.186C@mediaone.net> <3416B662.7E86@feist.com>
Martin Libhart wrote:
> 
> John:
> 
> The following inserted comments are strictly mine - there are always a
> number of ways to accomplish this part of the project.
> 
> SUCHAK wrote:
> >
> > Hey gang....
> >
> > I'm going to be removing the body on my Spitfire and am wondering a few
> > things before I do.
> >
> > First, just how heavy is this bugger?  Assuming it's only an empty tub,
> > doors and deck lid removed, no windshield or anything.  Can two
> > reasonably strong men lift and carry it?
> 
>         Yes, but three would be better. Ideally, one at the rear
>         and one in front of each door.  Be SURE you're floors and
>         sills are structurally sound, and brace the door openings
>         before you lift, unless you want to risk folding the tub
>         in half!  Personally, if sills/floors need replaced, I would
>         do while still on the frame, then remove the body.

Not even a hint of rust in this tub.  Do I still need to brace the door
openings?  


> 
> > Speaking of rolling the frame out, will I be able
> > to do that without the radius arm being mounted to the tub??
> 
>         You should be able to when carefully rolling the assembly.
> 
> > I plan to rest the body on some tall stands while I sandblast and paint
> > it.  Any suggestions on jackstand placement?  Obviously, I'd like to
> > avoid bending or buckling any panels in this process.
> 
>         If I were using jack stands, I would span a 4X4 or 4X6 timber
>         across pairs, and attach to the top of the stands.  This
>         will more evenly distribute the tub weight.  You will also
>         need to have taller support at rear, if you want the tub to
>         be fairly level.

I was hoping to have as much clearance as possible, hence my desire to
use stands, located at the frame attachment points...  No way I can do
this without spanning it w/ timbers?


> >
> > Finally, a question of aesthetics..  I'm probably going to paint the car
> > red again, and am wondering if I should paint it red inside, out and
> > underneath, or would a contrasting color on the underside of the floors,
> > wheel-wells and the firewall look cool, say black, or maybe even white?
> > The frame will be black.  (Or would it look weird?)  Anybody ever see
> > anything like what I'm talking about?
> 
>         Can't comment on this one... I'm a purist, and would
>         replicate the original car as much as possible.  Frame
>         would be body color, floors would match body, etc.  But,
>         each to his own, right??


After thinking ot over I'm just going to go with the exterior color
everywhere, as stock would've been.  However, I'm confused..  Would the
actual frame rails ahve been the body color as well?!?!  I thought
they'd be black, as mine will.

Thanks for the feedback!


John

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