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Re: Slow/stopping wipers: what to do?

To: ARhodes@compuserve.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Slow/stopping wipers: what to do?
From: DANMAS@aol.com
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 1999 22:32:29 EST
In a message dated 3/13/99 8:22:19 AM Eastern Standard Time,
ARhodes@compuserve.com writes:

> I had to use my wipers the other day :(   (on a TR4A)  At the slow
>  switch setting it looked like the wipers were struggling, and stopped
>  on a few occasions.  I found that if I kept the switch at the
>  "Fast" setting, then they would not stop, but were slower than I think
>  they should be.
>  
>  Where should I look first.  Motor or gear box?  Both?  Any pointers
>  to removing the parts from the car?  Do I need to take off both the motor
>  and gear box or can I get the motor off the gear box without removing
>  the box?

Tony,

Your problem could be in either the motor/motion convertor assembly or in the
wheelboxes, but the most likely place is in the wheelboxes. However, since you
have to start  by removing the motor assembly either way, I would recommend
you look into the motor assembly first. You can remove the motor assembly by
removing the 5 or six small screws holding the stamped steel cover plate on.
After you remove the cover, you can slip the end of the drive cable out of the
housing, and then remove the motor assembly.

Dissamble the motor assembly and clean it well, removing the decades old
grease from the interior. The motor/motion convertor assembly is a simple
assembly, and it will be obvious what needs to be done as you examine it.
Check the brushes and the internal wiring, and then reassemble. Put the motor
back in place and try it. If it works now, fine; if not take it back out and
go after the drive cable and the wheelboxes.

Often, the screws holding the wheelbox housings together can come loose,
allowing the drive cable to get out of alignment. This can cause the cable to
bind, slowing down, or in bad cases, stopping the motor altogether. Otherwise,
rust, dried grease, or corrosion can cause the wheelbox mechanisms to bind.

Getting the motor out is fairly easy -- not so the wheelboxes, but they are
not impossible to get out, just irritating.

I'm assuming you have checked all the wiring to be sure it's not an electrical
problem!

Dan Masters,
Alcoa, TN

'71 TR6---------3000mile/year driver, fully restored
'71 TR6---------undergoing full restoration and Ford 5.0 V8 insertion - see:
                    http://members.aol.com/danmas/
'74 MGBGT---3000mile/year driver, original condition - slated for a V8 soon
'68 MGBGT---organ donor for the '74

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